Thanks @patuljak , it is a great program , I did not learned yet the full potential of it , but worth trying as you never know when you need it .
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Tips for today
I tested the smartphone capacity when scanning
with my 6GB RAM and limitations
Feature Mode Color Scan : 850 frames maximum before you need to fuse it to continue
Feature Mode No Color : 1350 frames maximum before you need to fuse it to continue
Also got myself a Silicone black mat that is invisible for the POP2 to cover the table top when not using Light Box
Garbage bags are good but embarrassing lol
Still on sale for $6 , can be used also as background as well , it is not as thick , just perfect.
Your post(s) here are a goldmine PUTV! Thank you so much for them!
As I understand it, using the marker mode and even with the more reflective ones (which are not available in germany unfortunately…) does not increase the model quality, just the tracking stability, am I right?
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Yes , you are right , only good for the tracking of the object , not related with the quality , however proper point cloud scanning is the key for the quality of the final mesh . The first and most important step before anything else . I am sure you can get yourself some 6mm in diameter white sticker dots in Germany to put on the plate , in will helps already for scanning smaller objects in marker mode .
Thanks my friend for the good words ! I try to share my experiences with POP2 hopefully it will helps someone else on the way .
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Tested today the quality between Revo Scan latest version and Handy Scan 4 without editing outside the software.
Revo Scan latest version FEATURE MODE
Revo Scan latest version FEATURE MODE
Handy Scan version4 FEATURE MODE
Handy Scan version4 FEATURE MODE
The point cloud fusing is at the same level and meshing as well
however Handy Scan 4 has better tracking of objects at this moment , less errors.
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That scan of the DeWalt box looks great.
I happen to have the same box so I might try it too, but I don’t have any 3D scanning spray
I’m assuming you use spray on that first.
Yes I did because of the black text , but if you have any kind of powder it can do the job , or cover the black text with a tape.
I really did not wanted to waste my precious 3D Spray since it getting more and more expensive to buy it and last delivery cost $55 per can what is insane . but I wanted to see if it helps with the plastic or not , well it did not matter in this case, only helped with the black letters and parts . I wanted to see if the Infrared reacting differently with spray on or off . I first sprayed only half , but the result was exactly the same , it would make difference if the plastic was shiny probably .
I found new interesting thing in Revo Scan , changing the turntable rotation to 60sec per 360 degree provided much smoother and sharper object scan compared to 20 sec per 360 degree , the original POP2 turntable is 30 sec per 360 degree.
Very interesting I guess something changed in the software and slower rotation giving the software more time providing better results in point cloud frames alignment .
It may be also my system , but the image is worth a 1000 words.
with slower rotation it seems the noise pattern changed , bot was meshed at 6 and denoiser at 10 , at max both slider , I need to see if that will show up with different object or it was just a fluke
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Interesting discovery, because the fewer frames per scan resulted in less processor time.
Did you Fuse and Mesh in Revo Studio? If so, did you remove overlapping data while still a Point Cloud? Because, if more data results in a better-defined object, then I may have to revisit my workflow.
Jeff I did not leave Revo Scan , it was all inside , scan, fuse and mesh for the test , I tested with other objects and indeed slower turnable generated less noisy surface , there was not overlapping since I did not scanned it multiple times, just one tourn but slower . Meshed it at max setting and denoiser at max as well, all inside Revo Scan
What the slower turntable did was given more time for the software to align the frames , for that reason there was less noises , however both scans ended at the same size. The faster turntable processed faster since less frames, however you can notice more defined pattern of the noise .
I think this method will be good for hard edge models where there is a lot of flat surfaces and hard edges . The faster turntable works better with the organic models , fruit, face , body, sculpture.
There was actually nothing to be cleaned , since the point cloud was looking perfect, no fussiness noises etc… and meshed to perfection inside Revo Scan … big surprise
you can try to see how it works for you .
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Where did you get an adjustable turntable?
@Pygar2 on Amazon , link is above in this thread
I am doing another detailed video from A to Z , beyond merging , here just a quick scan and meshing in Revo Scan , my DSLR Nikon D800E , it is going to be merged from 10 scans in Feature mode , I am doing full 3D replica .
The 3D Spray vanished already partially before I even finished scanning on some parts, I did not want to over spray it too much , on some objects the spray lasted 1 hours on other object 24 , it depends on the porosity .
I really don’t like this spray on very fine surfaces since POP2 picks up on it too much, yes it can pick up chalky powdered layers , but sadly I can’t paint my camera with anything else, so I have no choice.
It will probably take me 2/3 days to finish
so here is a little shot of what is cooking , you see the blue color in the Depth Cam preview? it started already vanishing as it was at the end of the whole 1 half hour scanning session .
Raw Scan in Revo Scan and meshed inside for references only at 6 quality and denoiser at 10
I will merge only the point clouds I scanned .
AESUB Blue 3D Scanning spray after couple of hours
AESUB Blue 3D Scanning spray couple of minutes after spraying
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Tip of the day
Do you guys want to know how to make your own 3D scanning spray ? great to use on metal parts , easy to clean and not toxic and most important cost almost nothing .
What you will need
- Isopropyl Alcohol.
- Zinc Oxide powder non-nano
- Container for mixing
- Old Spray Bottle or Airbrush Spray Gun, whatever you have available at home
Add the alcohol to the mixing container first, then add half teaspoon of Zinc Oxide powder and mix well until it dissolves and you have milky consistency and color , go slowly , less is better not need to be too dense .
After that you can add the mixture to a simple old spray bottle or airbrush gun for fine results , shake each time and spray from 30 cm a thin layer first and let it dry until the alcohol evaporate , you can use hair dryer to speed the process but go far away with the blow , if needed add another layer , but don’t over spray , your object don’t need to be white
It is great for metal parts and objects that are dark or with shine , it is easy to clean up , no toxic , antibacterial and has a very fine layer . It is touchable after it is dry but not smudge proof
If you want it to be smudge proof in place of alcohol use hair spray , but then you will have to wash your object with water , if you use just alcohol then with a brush you can brush it off easier
this method is great for fine scanning like dental prosthetics and jewelry , it will be very usable with upcoming Revopount MINI scanner for precision scans as regular 3D scanning sprays are too dense for 0.02mm accuracy.
Before and after
you see one layer worked great , the other side without it did not scanned
You can also mix a baby powder with hair spray and use on dark beard or hair for scanning , working better than dry shampoo .
Here is the link to the Zinc Oxide cheapest you can find , I use it for years already .
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4KYA9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Cheers! Sounds like a good excuse to buy an airbrush!
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For small fine objects definitely Alan , make sure it include container with closed lid so you can give it a shake if needed around 20-40CC , if you use zinc oxide mixture . 27 to 32 PSI max with nozzle between 0.3mm to 0.2mm , portable are the best
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Good tips once again, thanks. One of my main aims of 3D scanning is to add to my collection of slotcars, they’re mainly Lotus. Not all models are available as slot cars so I though I might be able to scan die cast models and produce a body shell to fix to a donor chassis. I know I have a long way to go but I’ll get there.
I have the OK from my wife to buy an airbrush! Where is my credit card?
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Great idea ! My son requested some additional models for his train collection , so basically the same workflow as yours. My budget for this month is done , I got too many things already , today I got myself a different Arm for my POP2 , for smoother movements top-bottom back and forth and without screws on the joints , I hope it works as described .