I would also like suggestions on how to deal with objects that are thin / flat. How can you scan the entire object? If I pause and flip it over, the scanning will not regain tracking on the second side because none of the first side is visible. If I place it on the turntable, the scanner loses tracking when it rotates past the edge for the same reason i.e. there is no visible reference.
If I create two scans and try to align them in the Revo Studio, I have the same problem because I can’t pick common points in the two halves.
If you can’t pick any points manually , then it is virtually impossible .
You will need to add some random object next to it for references and remove it later after merging it manually in Revo Studio. Not easy task
That’s a good suggestion. Adding on an object that smoothly transitions through the full rotation allows tracking to be maintained. Now I just need to figure out how to do that with something as fragile as a crab shell while supporting it by the points on either end.
I saw the crab shell , not easy as it is symmetrical and round, I had difficulty scanning a bigger shell, kinda in the form of your crab shell , the same pattern on it confused the scanner .
What I finally did was scanning using color data , exporting it as *.ply and later when merged I had visual color references on both sides to mark the points manually .
What you can try is putting the POP2 above the shell , scan the top using color made ( quick couple frames ), then scan the back of it with a second scanner and try to merge both in Revo Studio following the references you will see in the color data .
With other similar object that did not had any color , I market it with couple of dots on the edges using simple red marker for references , scanned with color to find later the points , remember to not generate any textures before exporting to *.ply so you keep your color per vertex data intact , once you convert the textures the color per vertex data is gone .
The shell isn’t round though. It’s kind of a flattened oval. The tracking problem occurs when the thinner profile is facing the scanner since it can no longer see the previously scanned surface. In this case, I guess I could wrap registration lines around the edge. That would only constrain one degree of freedom though. I still wouldn’t know how far apart the two flat surfaces need to be.
I think the additional object approach may be the best choice. I am going to try that first. I’ll post results.
There is one more thing you can try out , set the shell in a vertical position and the scanner slightly above it , scan both sides at the same time around 300 frames fuse it , change the sides and do again 300 and fuse it and should be done without leaving Revo Scan , you can place it in a small plastic ring for a support or use the blue sticky stuff that came with the scanner forgot the name of it .
I think this will have results similar to the additional object approach I was thinking of since I could use the markers as the object.
The point that is sitting on the turntable is the long and thin spike on the side of the crab shell which is what I was referring to as being difficult to support because it’s so fragile. I will work something out and post what works.
@Miamijerry Yes it helps with a objects that have no features , flat spheres, coffee mug etc and also for small objects , but you will have to remove it later after scanning and it can be data heavy . I saw it in action it worked .
@glassTransition
you got with your scanner a form of a blue play doh … you can use it to secure your shell in any position
also great for scanning coins this way. Try with something else , I know your shell is very precious , it would be a shame if got damaged .
The “guided study” section of the Revopoint website has a write-up for small object scanning where they say to get closer and to set the scanning distance in either the excellent or too close range.
I wondered about this since the closer it gets the finer the laser pattern will be which should correspond to resolving finer detail as long as it’s in focus. It suggests that one can get as close as 100 mm.
Based on this, you would not ever want the scan to stop because you are in either the outer or inner range.
I tried yesterday , I got strange lines in the form of the infrared light pattern on the surface , vertical strips , for me it did not worked well unless the distance was at least 150-200 cm from the object . I know the RGB camera get out of focus when you try to get closer than that as the text was very fuzzy at less than 150mm .
I am also losing quick the alignment if is too close . But maybe you going to have more luck with your device . It cost nothing to try . I think we did not reach yet the full potential here .
Today I used my own turntable with 3 times faster speed than the original , and guess what? at 78 frames I had 360 degree scan ready , low data , fast fusion, great alignment … suprise suprise …
works great on objects with a lot of features , for less features slower is better .
I made a crude stand to hang the shell from. In order to get a complete scan, I was at a distance flickering between" good" and “too far.” The base of the stand kept the tracking locked. I know because if I got closer so that the base was not visible, it would not track and started the dreaded smearing. Marker mode worked too, but not as well.
The hanger is a piece of steel TIG rod that is shiny enough that most of it doesn’t scan.
Wow nice , it pick up the edges nicely this time , compared to your first scan with POP2 7 days ago, it is great improvement . Feature mode is my favorite as you getting the best sharpness , I assume the Infrared pattern is the sharpest in that mode , however the scanning area is so small and if the object is not full in view the tracking get lost very easily . Anyway great idea with the hanger !
I am looking for a good pure polyester fabric like they use in umbrellas to mask the areas around the scan , I usually use black velvet in my studio, but it is made from a cotton so only works well in absorption of visible light . With Infrared light it is all visible . Using garbage bags works but it is not good looking lol
I contacted customer service and tech support. I sent them a video of the pop2 not connecting to my computer. and they won’t offer a return. What a rubbish company! they told me because the project is closed they cant return. how am i supposed to have known that their products do not work before anyone received it to decide to return it. wasted $450! Does anyone know if a complaint can be made to kickstarter?
Its the nature of kickstarter.
You Are supporting a project not bying a project. This this oviously gets used wrongly nowdays as companys sell products also Eather same time or right after succesfull KS.
Here though the ks Price Was Alot cheaper so i ques its on for no returns. Still if there is Something oviously broken it would be the right thing to do.
But like i said it ma what should Everyone now. Kickstarter is supporting.
Personally im also done with kickstarters
@thrawn Kickstarter projects do not offer returns , since you only supported the project and not actually purchased the product, that is huge difference , for that reason I do not pledge no more on Kickstarter as that is not online store for less , I have box full of stuff that never worked . I purchased the POP1 and POP2 in the store but everything working fine on PC beside my phone .
However I don’t believe your device is broken , they should offer you at least support as they do to everyone .
There is so many users that had problem connecting to the computer but managed is successfully , so not reason to give up .
Just post your issues in the support forum and I am sure someone will helps you out .
The best way is to connect POP device to external power supply like power bank or 5V USB power adapter and use Computer’s WiFI to connect the device if you have issues with the USB only , it works almost always .
Some motherboards USBs ports can’t supply steady power and data to the POP device and that is not the device fault.
Try with the WiFI … it will works.
the pop2 cannot connect via wifi to my computer and plugged into external power and the revoscan software just crashes when i select anything, if the software buttons even respond.
I too think the hardware is ok, but the software is completely useless which makes the pop2 completely useless.
I am doing everything that has been suggested on this forum. it just does not work. I do not understand what their rush was to send this product out only to piss off everyone. They need at least another year to develop their software which sounds like they didnt even improve from handyscan, so clearly they do not know what they are doing.
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