I am joining the group of frustated POP2 users.
Two days of fiddeling with all settings, lighting, apps, objects - all you can think of.
Not a single result is even nearly usable.
Even the provided bust which is the ideal object to scan does not deliver good results.
Tracking issues all the time causing the objects to fuse to an smeared crap.
If it can’t track, why the hell does it fuse wrong images?
Probably this waste of money is only good to scan paper cups as shown in the video.
And I don’t want to know how many attempts even this cup needed.
The calibration itself is a complete nightmare. I always have the feeling camera vs hand movements are reversed.
The software is just so buggy it is no fun at all to use it.
Alone the fact that I cannot click next to the setting balls to move them (like the rest of the world does), but having to klick on the ball and drag it over the place. How hard can it be to fix that?
Settings changing over menues - how hard can it be to fix that? A two liner?
I am really tempted to give this thing a kick start towards eBay and continue to live my life in peace and without anger.
@thrawn well then you have issue to run the software . I saw this issue by another user .
The problem may be with the windows security setting . The new software is also still in beta and you need to run it as admin .
I am using it on PC and I do not have any issues with it . Must be your system
The new Revo Scan have lots of new features that are so much better than Handy Scan . I run both software without issues .
POP connecting to the PC without software and that are 2 different things , first you stated you can’t connect, now you stated you can’t run the software, it is little confusing .
As Kickstarter baker you helping them develop the products better , some pledges I supported not even finished anything and abandoned their projects totally , and I never got any refund or even working devices .
Since POP works fine on my system and I have no major issues with scanning anything , I guess there is something else going on , and why your can’t run the software , if it works for me and not for you then must be something in your system that trigger the crash , it can be outdated graphics driver tha can’t support OpenGL 4 or windows security issues … I can only guess .
Im using a Macbook pro 16" 2019 with an i9 and 16gb ram. So definitely not a hardware/power issue on my end.
You can open the software regardless if pop2 is connected. The software itself doesnt respond to any input and will just shut down.
When i connect pop2 via wifi. It will eventually say connected but then immediately disconnect.
I tried connecting to my samsung z flip 3 and the app on there, the input is also unresponsive to anything even though pop2 is connected to wifi. No preview shows up and app will crash as well.
All of my hardware is running appropriate permissions etc. I have tried downloading redownloading restarting, but nothing works
The most i managed to get was using handscan software on my mac and usb mode to scan the little bust but it has 3 heads and looks like it got melted.
So it is very much repoint’s software not working at all.
@highlander@jkust I scanned tones of models already , different kind, complex and simple , people , faces and most everyday objects without issues , small and big and it delivers fantastic results .
sorry to hear about your troubles , as with any new 3D laser scanner you need to learn the process and have lots of patience. If you can’t even scan a single bust that was included with the scanner , then don’t even think to try anything else before you learn . It is easier to scan a very complex object than a simple egg . Go imagine .
I know the Manual is not as detailed yet and there is not as much good materials online to learn from .
I paid for my POP2 $800 and if I knew how good it was , I would pay easy double the price so good it is compared to a very expensive professional 3D scanners that do not even are much easier to use at all.
@thawn ok then it is definitely the beta software issue on your system .
The cable connection issues are common issues on all systems by many users , for some it works for others it does not and nobody can explain why .
You should report all your bugs to the forum here with a clean thread and ask @Revopoint-Cassie for support, she may talk to the programmers and find solution for you.
Myself I am on Windows system so I can’t be helpful here with your issues.
Regarding Handy Scan , you should have no tracking issues with the bust , it is so simple to use and scan in a few minutes , most users over scan the figure and let it turning around couple of times , in place of using max 300 frames per 360 degree , fuse it and done , over scanning will results in weird fusions , also stay away from bright window lights , works best in controlled ambient light since the laser uses infrared light pattern and bright day light has a lot of infrared light as well and the sensors get confused . Try to scan one round and nothing more , then change position of the object and do it again fussing the scan each time . Handy Scan do not support POP2 well as the new features are missed so you may get less detailed model .
@Miamijerry thank you Gerald , the reason for that is because it is incredible device , the software need some improvement and bugs fixed but the 3D scanner is amazing and worth more than the actual value.
I am thinking to setup new channel on YT and share some tips and tricks to have it all in one spot .
@PUTV I am aware that this is a learning process. I had the same with 3D printing (FDM & SLA) as well as CAD design (Fusion 360).
Btw. add another 150$ to mine for shipping and customs.
Today I managed to do a good scan of the bust and a pretty good scan of a wooden object.
The rest of the day I was fighting to repeat exactly the same scans (see below for details).
For all other frustated users let me share my day 3 experience:
Darken the room and eliminate daylight almost entirely and use LED light only
Add the dotted plate onto the turn table and tack it with the provided BluTak - ideally cover up the dots. Don’t use the trash bag provided. It’s too shiny. I used a black 3D printer build surface that I did not need anymore and cut it so it fit the plate.
Set lighting settings manually so you can clearly see the contours on the depth cam.
Scan your model and learn when it will lose tracking.
Restart the scan and let it run just before this position.
Finish the model (this will be a new start object)
Resume the scan on a different position so it can add more points.
Whenever it fuses crap into the model pause immediately and undo the last addings.
Resume and finish - resume and finish … Don’t add to many frames. Less is better than more. The
finishing sets a point of no undo which is helpful.
Be aware that the undo function sucks big time. Once the model has disappeared redo and undo again
to get to the last good.
Here is why I was not able to repeat my successful first scan:
The lighting settings also suck big time as (for the depth cam) 1 is not 1.
You can set it a hundred times to 1 and it is still too bright unless you put it in automatic and back to manual.
Now 1 is a lot darker. This was my issue the whole day today. Thanks folks #!@*!
Sorry, but this software is in no terms Beta. Alpha at max. If I would deliver such quality of work I would be unemployed within a week.
The “learning curve” is all about getting around the culpits the crappy software gives you.
@jkust I agree the software is not ideal and the most important setting is broken which causes the most issues while scanning if not corrected. I understand new users may never even know that, and I check everyday for the updates on this issue.
I see you developed yourself a nice workflow !
I do mostly the same steps, never pass the 300 frames on one rotation as it seems to be a crucial key . I got myself a faster turntable around 10 seconds faster than the original , less frames faster scanning .
and light box to eliminate bright window light . LED’s seem to have no effect on the infrared sensor at all.
After reading other posts, I tried installing Revo Scan on my Windows 7 computer and it does open a program window (the earlier software, called Handy Scan, would not even do that).
However, when I plugged in my POP 2 and Revo Scan tried to talk with it, I got a shutdown notice (my other open programs were being closed).
So… the documentation seems still to be correct: Windows 8 and 10 only. I have read that people with Windows 11 are having problems, but I have not read the opposite (that Windows 11 users are having no problems), so I don’t know the actual status.
@PUTV I hear you when it comes to the turntable speed.
So I opened up the flimsy pot and reverse engineered the little pcb inside.
I figured that the motor is controlled by what probably is a PIC microcontroller (markings removed).
And since I don’t like PICs so much I just removed the PIC and wired an Arduino Nano to the pcb hence using the original stepper driver.
Now I can adjust the speed continuously from almost stop to light speed using the single original tactile switch. Hah! Problem solved at almost no cost.
Before anybody asks: you need to be an advanced soldering iron user in order to do this.
Wow nice job @jkust
The smaller turntables around 7 and half inches are very cheap online starting at $10 with many levels of speed .
Interesting that all the turntables above 8 inches in diameter has less speed functions , hower I found out from my testing that the perfect rotation of 20 sec per one rotation works the best with POP2 for objects with lots of features ( sculptures, figurines etc) for the less featured object the speed above 30 sec per rotation seems to be better .
I was able to scan one full figurine with less than 76 frames , the result was clean, sharp and the textures was perfect . It seems that too slow over scanning of complex figures only ask for troubles.
attached my experience of the last 2 days. which is similar to @jkust experience
0.1 Disable GPU Rendering in Application Settings
Darken the room and eliminate daylight to minimal. With LED they loose track as well in my experience
You can use the Turntable. But u have to use Feature Mode, because than the markers doesnt matter. With markers mode the Scanner does not work properly (loose track)
2.1 Use rare times High accuracy mode. Fast Scan is good enough in most of the cases
Set lighting settings from auto to manual, Depth value to minimum all the time.
Scan your model and learn when it will lose tracking. Stop immidiatly
Restart the scan and let it run just before this position.
Finish the model
Resume the scan on a different position so it can add more points.
Whenever it fuses crap into the model pause immediately and undo the last addings.
Resume and finish - resume and finish … Don’t add to many frames. Less is better than more. The
finishing sets a point of no undo which is helpful.
Be aware that the undo function sucks big time. Once the model has disappeared redo and undo again
to get to the last good.
After finishing the scan. do not merge the pointcloud. Check first that the Point pitch is set to 0.1 instead of 0.2
Here is why I was not able to repeat my successful first scan:
The lighting settings also suck big time as (for the depth cam) 1 is not 1.
You can set it a hundred times to 1 and it is still too bright unless you put it in automatic and back to manual.
Now 1 is a lot darker. This was my issue the whole day today. Thanks folks #!@*!
Sorry, but this software is in no terms Beta. Alpha at max. If I would deliver such quality of work I would be unemployed within a week.
The “learning curve” is all about getting around the culpits the crappy software gives you.
A big problem i recognised is the CPU Usage. 100% all the time.
Another Problem is the Heating of the Scanner itself. After 2 hours in Use it could be that picture is frozen or the picture for rgb camera and depth is all the time grey.
Another issue is that if you want to use the Revopoint LED Light. It is not possible to mount it on the Stativ or the Smartphone support. because the LED Light has a Feet width of 18mm and the groove witdth is just 16.5mm
LEDs do not emit ultraviolet (UV) or infrared light for that reason it can’t affect the scanner , optical tracking is based on the scanned object’s unique features .
The Gain setting is the major issue why everyone that is not aware of the bug is losing tracking
