Disconnect and IR Camera Issues


We have been having a couple problems with our Pop that so far we’ve not been able to fix.

The first issue is random disconnects while scanning. We verified the ports the scanner is connected to are all USB 3.1. We’ve also brought a USB tester and tested all the ports (5.1v). While the tester was connected we plugged in the scanner and the voltage never dropped below 4.9v. Whenever the scanner disconnects the light on the scanner goes from green to off, to blue and back to green. Once the light is green it may connect again, but sometimes it does not. We will then have to unplug the scanner or restart Handyscan to eventually get it working again. Sometimes just leaving it alone will get it to start working again. This has been happening since we first got the scanner, but seems to be getting worse lately.

Today after getting a few scans done we are starting to get the disconnects along with no IR camera. The RGB camera will be working just fine but the IR camera window is either gray or solid red. While looking at the scanner you will not see a red light in the camera. This issue can happen when first starting a new scan, after unpausing to resume scanning, and while scanning is on, but no movement is happening for while.

In addition to trying all the ports on the laptop we’re using we have updated to the current version of the windows software. We have also purchased new USB cables from amazon and still have the same issues. The laptop we are using works with no issues at all with our other scanners so we are pretty sure the problem is not there. We are planning to connect the scanner to one of our desktop computers and see if that makes a difference.

We have been very impressed with the scans we have been able to complete and hope you can help us find a way to make our scanner more stable.

1 Like

Hi @ARTFiT3D ,

  1. Can you use a power bank to test if the POP can work? You can plug the POP into the power bank, then connect it via Wi-Fi mode on your phone.
    From your description, I guess it may still be a power issue.
  2. Could you please share with us a video of the IR camera issue? If it is convenient, I think we can arrange a meeting to check the problem directly. You can send it to customer@revopoint3d.com and CC forum@revopoint3d.com.

Best Regards

Hey Cassie,

Hope you are doing well. We will be doing some more testing today to try an isolate the issues we are having. I’ll let you know what we find when we are done. We have a few things we can try that we think will help pin down what is going on.

Thanks for your help,

Hi @ARTFiT3D ,

Ok, then I will wait for your further information.

Thank you for your effort.

Best Regards

Hi @Revopoint-Cassie

Sorry for the delayed response. Wanted to give you an update to what I have found so far.

I used these tools and several websites to get this information. I’ll only list a few to keep this as short as possible.

MakerHawk USB 3.0 Tester(link is very long! should be easy to find)
Usbdeview View any installed/connected USB device on your system
USBview Universal Serial Bus Viewer in Windows - Windows drivers | Microsoft Learn

This is something I copied from the FAQ online.

Why does POP need to use USB 3.0 port?
A: Because the power consumption of POP is 5V 1A, and its minimum required power supply is 4.8V, 800mA. (While the output of 2.0 interface is 5V 500mA, and the output of USB 3.0 is 5V 1A.)

The USB specification for power output from a USB 3.0 slot is 900 mA. I found this information from several sources online.

The pop I’m having a problem with is drawing between 900 mA to a bit over 1A while just plugged in without the Handyscan app open. This is the highest reading we got so far.

00019mAh 0004.70

While testing on Monday with the pop connected to the mobile kit battery the battery lights went from 3 to 2. We had the usb tester connected at the time and saw the amps drop from 970 mA or so to about 550 I think. At that point the IR camera stopped working. The monitor view in Handyscan was solid red. The amps kept dropping till at about 400 mA then the RGB camera froze and we had to disconnect the battery and restart the app.

When we plugged it back into the same battery everything started woking again, but we did switch to a fresh one to continue testing.

Later that day we gained access to another pop scanner. We used that scanner to compare it to ours. When we connected the scanner to the same port on our laptop these are the readings we got. This is with the pop plugged in and Handyscan is not open. It can go a bit higher at times, but not much more.

Pop2 power

This pop was purchased about 2 weeks ago. While connected to our laptop in the same port it never goes above 0.78 mA while plugged in. It also will never get to 900 mA while scanning in the time we tested(about 2-3 hours. This pop also has a higher firmware version( and ours is

There were some other things we noticed in USBview while testing and I’m not sure it matters. In USBview the pop is identified as a USB 2 device with a max power setting of 500 mA. This is the same on both of the pops. It also shows similar information when connected to our Macs.

Pop mac

When connected to a battery or an AC adapter that can supply 1A or higher we don’t have the same disconnect issues we have while connected to the USB 3.0 ports on our laptop. After using another pop and seeing that it’s amps never get as high as ours I feel like something is wrong with ours. If a firmware update will fix it I’m happy to do it. If not then I think we need it replaced. I wouldn’t feel comfortable connecting it to our computers and drawing that much power from the ports. If you need anymore information or testing please let me know.

Thanks for your help!


The peak current when POP powering on is about 0.95A;
The peak current when POP starts to scan is about 1A;
The peak current during POP scanning is about 0.95A;
The peak current when POP is powered on but not scan is about 0.75A;

The specific current of different batch of POP may be not totally same, but usually won’t be so much difference.

And since it stoped your IR camera from working sometimes, we’d like to replace a new POP for you and call this one back to test.

Would you please send a PM with your shipping address, post code, email address, and telephone number to me?

Best Regards

Hi Cassie,

Thank you for getting back to me. I have sent you a PM.

All the best,

1 Like

You have misread the specifications. The data lines in USB 3.0 are rated for 900 mW (not mA), up from 500mW for USB 1.0 & 2.0.

USB 3.0 power can range up to 95 Watts, but smartphones use a lesser rating of 15 Watts which, at 5 Volts, works out to 3 Amps (3000 mA).