I use a little dropper bottle to fill the airbrush cup. So I can dose just a few drops. The ATTBLIME AB2G bottle is too big to make small drops. I will leave it in cool and dark place, only to refill the small dropper bottle.
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I am thinking my 0.3mm airbrush is not good for some reason as it accumulates stuff in the front too much , I need to replace the whole airbrush, they are not expensive anyway . The pomp working fine with my other dual action 0.8mm airbrush as well .
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My airbrush even seems a bit too strong compressor for spraying small parts. It has a button underneath to set lower pressure. I use the lower pressure. Yes it takes a long time to cover with a thick layer, but thin layer is fast enough. It doesn’t clog, I tried a lot of times. After use I empty it completely, open the nozzle and wipe off needle and let it dry. After a few hours it was completely clean. I think 0.5mm is better for most people because faster. Maybe even 0.7mm so you only need one layer and it’s white. But just to let know it seems to work with my 0.3mm nozzle.
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Good thing is you don’t need to make the object white , and I can control the amount on my dual action airbrush with 0.8mm so different coverage level .
I tried with the most difficult surfaces and slightly frosting works amazing .
My 0.3mm spiting out drops for some reason so time for replacement. Ultrasonic cleaning did not improved anything so bad one already . I used it for some time already but with other stuff , that maybe why .
Yes I can understand with bigger nozzle you have more options for fast or slow 
Here is how it looks with my 0.3mm:
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wow that’s a lot of spraying with the 0.3mm , same as with my 0.8mm , seems your pomp is powerful .
I see you have also dual action airbrush here .
with my 0.3mm you barely can see the spray coming out . I just checked my old pro airbrush box and found 0.5mm, 0.3mm nozzle and needles 
forgot I have it . Gonna check it out tonight .
I am using this one ( nozzle 0.3mm sucks but good compressor)
with airbrush
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Thank you very much for the fast reply and the very thorough answer! Just the kind of clarification I needed!
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Hahaha! The Timbertech one is the one that arrived here today! Excellent. For air supply I tap into my workshop air line which is plumbed throughout the shop, I can get up to 150PSI, but regulated down to a very nice 20-40PSI.
Special thanks to @hugonl38 for your thorough documentation!
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I love the Timbertech airbrush with 27 PSI works great , no leaking , well made feel good in the hand , I just painted with it some of my fall/ Halloween decors I printed …
Good tip. One question: do you need to clean the airbrush bowl after spraying or does the material completely sublimate to nothing and doesn’t require cleaning? If you clean it, what solvent do you use?
With my limited experience, I have noticed that just leaving the bowl open, after a few hours it is completely clean and free of any white residue. I did open the nozzle cover and wiped off a bit, but there was not much there.
I opened the whole airbrush and found some white residue on some screw threads, so I guess my airbrush unit is not very high quality and leaks at places. I bought some Iwata Lube and will lube the parts, apparently this helps with keeping things smooth and air-tight.
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Ok, thanks! So maybe removing the nozzle port and blowing it out, then leaving the port and bowl cover off is enough. That’s great to know! Quick and easy!
This is with ATTBLIME AB2G. On the bottle it says ‘rinse with water’ if you get it on your skin, so I think it’s maybe water soluble? I need to test. But that would mean you can just push some water through when finished scanning spray to speed things up.
Water could corrode the internal parts over time so make sure it’s completely dry if you use water, i would use something like IPA that will blow out and dry quickly
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Ok I tried water, it doesn’t work. I covered a spoon in AB2G, let it dry and then tried to rinse the spoon with water. The white layer did not dissolve, it stayed completely put on the spoon. So any white residue in your airbrush will not rinse with water.
Next I tried Isopropanol (99% pure alcohol). It dissolves the white residue very good. But it evaporates quickly and leaves the white (now sticky) residue there, it does let you wash it off with water. So Isopropanol and then water seems to work.
Next I tried Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner:
It works the best of all. The white residue dissolves very quickly and becomes liquid and thin. It can then easily be removed. It says to mix one part Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner with one part water, so it should last long.
Well, this is just to get rid of any stubborn white residue quickly. Though I guess over night it should all disappear anyway.
Ok good to know. Especially since my airbrush is of the cheap sort, it seems on some corners the chrome is already chipping. So I will make sure to disassemble and dry the brush whenever I used any water.
So if IPA does dissolve the AB2G white residue, could we then (after finishing scanning spray) flush with IPA, then flush with water and then flush with IPA again? This should dissolve the white residue, then rinse (blow) it out, and then the last IPA flush gets rid of water and evaporates?
How do people clean their airbrush when using things like acrylic paint, with Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner? It says dilute with 1:1 water… Just blow some of this through and let dry? Disassembled?
That would probably work ok,
I haven’t tried paint thinner but that would probably work well also
You just need to leave it open with the parts exposed to air flow and it will be clean on its own in couple of hours .
Remove the needle as well .
Not need water or flushing with other chemicals
Exactly that … it vanishing much faster with good air flow but should be ready to reuse in 2+ hours as new again
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