That black plastic object is just going to absorb infrared light and look invisible.
You’ll have to paint it or use a subliment on it
Mix baby powder in IPA and spray it onto the model, Once dried it will scan. After you just brush if off
For those living in the northwest
IPA is NOT Indian Pale ale
It is Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).
Exact. Do not waste IPA the beverage on this trick
Good tip, now I need a proper air brush pistol (had an old one, that performed poorly). I needed a proper one anyway, for painting fdm printed objects.
I used a spray bottle from the hardware store. Had on lying around and the nozzle was too small and got clogged
Speaking of IPA, which percentage (70% or 91%) is recommended?
And the proper mixture?
I really don’t know. I would assume that a higher alcohol percentage would evaporate better.
That depends on your application. If you’re going to spray it on anything painted with acrylic paint you’ll want to use a lower alcohol content, though even 70% can effect acrylic paint. IPA can work as paint thinner on some types of paint, I know from firsthand experience that the 99% I use for cleaning resin prints will start stripping Golden Acrylics, Liquitex acrylic ink, and Alclad Lacquers. The 70% I keep for disinfecting doesn’t really strip, but it will weaken the binding and let it rub off.
Best way to be sure that ANY coating is safe is to get a small bit of cloth or paper towel wet with the coating and gently rub the object in an area that isn’t easily seen.
For objects that you know are painted I’ll suggest what others on here have, spray on foot powder or dedicated scanning sprays.
While I haven’t tried baby+IPA myself, I’ve read ratios ranging from 4 parts powder and 6 parts IPA, to 6 parts powder and 4 parts IPA. You’ll want it thin enough that it will not clog whatever you use to spray it with.
For unpainted objects, such as the plastic cap in the opening post, IPA shouldn’t have any effect, and using a high % IPA will make it dry faster.
I have been using AESUB green with a bottle-fed airbrush to coat hard to scan surfaces. It works great under most conditions and unless you get overly enthusiastic with your spraying it will sublimate, go from solid to gas, within a few hours.
I have been using AESub Blue & Orange. The petroleum odor is bad enough outdoors; indoors almost makes me gag and PUTV’s observation that it doesn’t totally dissipate and actually damages some materials was worrisome.
I have tried Dry Shampoo; it doesn’t allow for fine details as I would like.
Current plans for the IPA and Zinc Oxide are for shiny metal objects, but I can always wash it off of painted metal after a few minutes, I suppose.
You can just brush it off ,
when you use powder you need much more powder as it absorbing the IPA and take longer to dry and not recommended for fine details , Zinc Oxide don’t absorbing and are small enough to be used with fine objects, and you need less . I use it now with IPA 99%, it dry in seconds . I used it on acrylic painted objects without any damage .
However for things that can’t be washed for any reason , I still prefer Attblime R2 can or 0.7mm nozzle airbrush, no damages to metals or surfaces and designers favorite . Not to mention half price …
no AESUB for me ever again after what Orange did to my coins and silver-plated objects by dissolving the silver plating .
How much less? I bought a 12 oz spray bottle claiming an “improved spray top”. With 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (the highest concentration I can buy locally), what would you recommend as a starting mix (say, with 1 teaspoon or 1 tablespoon of Zinc Oxide)?
I have found a claimed 99.9% concentration on Amazon for a reasonable amount of money, but it’s a quart. Once I break the seal, do I have to be concerned with shelf life?
I make the consistency like a 1% milk for use with spray bottle, you can always soray a second layer if not enough .
I never make more than 4oz at once , use half tea spoon mix and see the consistency, when you shake you should have residue on the Bootle wall semi opaque , it is hard to give exactly proportions , depends on alcohol % , zinc powder and nozzle of the spray .
Also for using with brush there are different proportions and you need more zinc .
So start with less , shake well and if you have semi opaque residue on the Bootle wall you good to go , less is more , your object not need to be white after spraying , just slightly mate so you still see the color through, it will be enough .
The 99% is for technical use only , electronic , jewelry, it dry very quickly , I use it also to clean my printer hot bed , prints stick like crazy after .
After opening it , it will last forever as long you close it very tight , other way it will slowly evaporate , If I don’t use for long time I use the plumber white tape to make it more air thight.
And if you use spray bottle, just make sure you have good ventilation .
I always use this one 16oz .
Amazon Brand - Solimo 99% Isopropyl Alcohol For Technical Use,16 Fl Oz https://a.co/d/7KC2BNF
That might be the aerosol component of the spray you’re smelling, the Green is sold in as a liquid in a jar/can like paint thinner, you’ve got to load it into a spraying device yourself. At least to me the green doesn’t have much odor, and what it does have isn’t all that bad. Mind you I’ve worked in some nasty conditions so I might be biased.
AESUB does obscure some detail, I have definitely noticed it doing scans with the POP2. Depending on which scanner you’re using it will become more pronounced.
I haven’t tried the zinc oxide yet, but it is on my list if I have a need after my Mini gets in.
99% IPA will not go bad, your 2 worst case scenarios are it either evaporates, or it drops down to the low 90% range from absorbing water in the air.
PUTV - I’m curious about the coins, I’ve got a 1944 silver dollar that I sprayed with the AESUB green, and let it clear on its own over the course of a day or two, with no side effects. I’ve got a few random coins from various countries laying around that aren’t worth more than their intended value that I’ll try spraying it on. The MSDS for the green and orange is quite different when listing the chemical composition. I wonder if it was the difference in the AESUB composition, the coins, or residue from past cleanings. I’m not a collector, so none of my coins have seen anything that didn’t get into a pocket with them.
Just checked a tin of coins, I’ve got a 2000 Sacagawea dollar with a P mint mark to match up with the one you posted about, nothing special about mine, I’ll see what the green does.
ASEBUB Orange reacted even with a quarter , do not waste Sacagawea, it will be hard to clean and one of my dollar coin got permanent damage , unless the smelly component in Orange doing it that is not included in your formula .
Just spray on a quarter and put on a side for a while .
I did not had much issues with Blue in the past and I used it on electronics.
But after the issue with Orange I switched to ATTBLIME R2 liquid, and also using it with airbrush . Much better surface when scanning with MINI, less clogging of fine details . It have more of a frosting effect on the surface , I made comparison , the difference was huge .
Zinc oxide is better than powder, it stick also better to the surface and less smudging when you handle the object with gloves , very fine surface when using with airbrush . Easy to brush off with a brush .
That’s not showing up on the US web site (us.attblime.shop).
Yes typo AB2 last for 2 hours , you need airbrush with minimal of 0.7mm nozzle
Layer thickness 3.6 microns for one layer .
Particularly not visible to POP2 .
The price is only for the 1L container $26, on the phone the app shows both.
I’m going to get some ATTBLIME AB2-G when i run out of the AESUB green, I haven’t had any problems with the green and the smell is definitely not as bad as the orange which does seem to react with some metals, i got a can from Revopoint3d with the beta MINI, other than the orange lasting longer i must say I think the green is better,
Hopefully the ATTBLIME AB2-G is better than the green
Is this good or bad? Do you mean that it is only useful for the Mini, or that the POP 2 cannot discern the thickness of the deposited spray material?