Yea I know, I just don’t know a good workflow to capture a smaller object from multiple angles. When you have to say scan 50-60 parts, there has to be a more convenient way. Even if it involves creating some kind of custom turntable etc.
Or I’m just approaching this in the wrong way. I’ve started to try and merge after removing edges that are incomplete mesh’s and that’s improved the merges somewhat. But I feel like I’m still missing stuff on
How many scans per rotation I need. I’ve set it to
5degree rotation interval so 36 scans per rotation. 60 rotation speed. Then I did have multiple angle rotations just for coverage. But I’m very open to other workflows where I can get a good scan of an object and merge them if it creates a good quality scan. I just don’t know of a good guide/workflow for doing small object scans where the bottom is also detailed.
Wish I had that answer for you. I don’t deal in volumes of scans and I very much rely on being able to waste a lot of time on individual things.
I would think it’d be possible to make a turntable that has the pivot located at the height of the object (or the center of the object). Ideally you’d have a range of adjustment for that height as well. Whatever the range is between Excellent and Good is probably the extents you’d want the object to remain between while being rotated.
I’m ok with that it taking longer. I just want to have a successful process instead of repeated scanning and not getting a result that can be merged or is a usable single scan. I’m struggling with issues merging when trying to capture multiple scans from multiple angles. Or if I try to do a single scan, I’ll attempt to say turn the object in its side or something to cover an an ares overhead scanning doesn’t reach and it just loses alignment usually and I get afterimages. So I’m not sure how I can do a single scan, or get multiple angels and merge properly.
Here’s a picture of the new setup I’m trying instead of light box
Is your 3D printed mount thing overexposed relative to the miniature?
The angle looks a little steep for that shape.
Are you positive the object doesn’t bob around as it looks like it’s mounted with a wire? The turntable is not subtle (although you can control the speed at which it rotates in auto mode so maybe it’ll torque less).
Narrow your scanning distance so only the object/features to track are visible. If you’re feeling lucky you can use the digital zoom. I don’t know if it gives you any more detail but it can cut out extraneous data. The Excellent and Good range only total 100mm and your object is small enough that you want to only see maybe 50mm of total range.
I would try a little blob of sticky-tack and stand the object on the turntable. Use marker mode since you’re merging anyway (feature mode is only useful to avoid merging when you have to rotate the object). Flip it upside down and do the second pass.
I’ve only done full miniatures (Warhammer with a 20mm base) so I’m not dealing with the smaller volume of individual pieces. Maybe your objects are below the minimum volume for the scanner to be happy so with the turntable and marker method you might need some extra “fluff” to scan.
If you’re not capturing color, turn off the lights. And for good measure black out any surfaces where stray blue light from the scanner might reflect (everyone has duvetyne and black velvet laying around yeah?).
1: Yes it possibly is, it’s white pla and sprayed with flat white primer
2: I was trying to do 90 and 45 like I was reading in various threads and guides.
3:It doesn’t really bob, but I was using the official tripod it came with at first and having issues.
4. I have narrowed the scanning distance so it’s only in excellent or maybe bleeding a little into good range.
5: I use stick tack, I tried marker mode at first but I was told feature mode would give better results, and it did seem to?
6:The extra fluff I think was the scanner helper (The base it’s on)
7: Ah ok. I kept reading you need it well/evenly lit. Is that only for things like cross scan etc?
I’m a SUPER-novice, but I’ve gotten a couple of good scans with the (included supercheapo) tripod on the desk, and the turntable on the printer/scanner top, which allows some elevation change through the tripod legs &/or things under the turntable.
It is not complex and expensive to have the proper pivot , the original design of Revo turntable center pivot has the true center for the object but for some reason it was redesigned to current version .
A true center pivot turntable with a tilt , need to have a center pivot and that is very easy to create .
You can find center pivot 3D models for printing and use it with the standard Revopoint turntable .
However whatever the turntable are , center pivot turntable are only for a very usable for small objects , you can’t use it for long objects as it still will be not perfect and accuracy will change in the length .
