I’m currently attempting to scan miniatures using my Metro X for use to use as a basis to model various 3D bits. Because of the features I need to capture it from various angles to capture all the details. I’m unsure which mode to use, I’ve been using either feature scan or marker scan with auto turn table mode. But Unfortunately I don’t know how to raise the object up high enough to capture it from enough angles without losing tracking position at some point and ruining the scan. I’ve seen some great scans accomplished using similar scanners like here Steamkraft | SHOWCASE | Revopoint MINI 2 3D Scanner - #6 by Steamkraft
But I’m unsure how they went about capturing various angles properly and with a continous mode to boot? (I imagine it has something to do with the base they’re using being feature rich). I’ll either lose tracking, or have a shift in the scans over a long scan and either have to dig through frames to remove the errant data, or try to merge the models which usually then leaves a lot of roughness or feature loss. I would love some help as guides on scanning very small detailed objects are very limited.
Please check the forum Tutorial section to see how to capture multiple angles .
The best option here will be the Auto Turntable mode .
Set the turntable for 36 frames using feature mode.
Scan one angle ,after it stop , change the position of the figure and hit again the play button to capture another angle
Do it as many times until you captured the whole object.
This is the best way , because you don’t have to merge partial scans what is also an option .
You can scan many angles separately, each time angle finishing you start a new scan , after collecting all angles you clean the scan while it is under fused , then move to Merge Tab , and merge all the scans together .
I hope it helps , it is very easy once you make it once !
I use auto-mode, feature tracking. I raise the mini up on some printed pedestal but I don’t use the built-in angle pivot of the turntable. I do one round, reposition the scanner, then do the next round. If you use the turntable tilt and try to get it in one go, the distance from the scanner changes too drastically when you tilt. Keep repositioning the scanner between rounds to keep the mini around halfway between excellent-good (seems to be the best RGB focus on mine).
I probably capture too many frames but as you can see sometimes it loses track. I just let it go as it usually picks it back up sometime during the round. I’ve already trimmed all the non-miniature points from the scan.
Thanks! This is basically what I started doing near the end while trying to work it out. I also recreated a plinth with features from another topic so we’ll see how that works out.
Make sure you clean the scan from everything you don’t need before fusing it for best results and resolution , don’t fuse it with the plinth . Make sure your figurine is isolated from the rest and not flat on top of it , I use transparent plastic cap to put small object on top of it . Easy to clean later .
Yes, this is the trick, move the figure and/or reposition the scanner to allow an optimal distance and angle to the object. The adventage of scanning figurines is that there are so many features that you can avoid markers and get a full scan in one shot.
This is an example of a 1:35 figure that I use as a testbed
Yeah this is how I do a lot of my photogrammetry scans some of the real small mechanical items I have to hold in a pin vice and get cleaver with my F stop and lighting
If you don’t mind me asking, how do you go about evaluating the distances etc. I use the unit chart on the side telling me if it’s “good, excellent etc” but often that doesn’t seem to track properly when paused etc/between setting up new scan. Then I get these splits where it seems to lose tracking, even with this new plinth
I’m trying to figure out a workflow where I can move the model or the scanner between rotations etc. It’d be nice to use a continuous scan mode but that’s even worse.
You need to set the scanner at 45 degrees making sure the top part is always visible .
I would suggest you print yourself a smaller version because it looks much too big and it is not nesesery as the frame size is very small .
The distance should be Excellent to Good , something between us always a good option .
Make sure you remove all elements in RAW mode before fusing , and not fuse the whole scan then removing the base after.
I assume you are using a turntable , because the set will works mostly with turntable .
You can’t pause and change the directions of the figurine and continue scanning , this setup you created is only for one angle scanning , not changing positions . If you do it will never work .
Thanks, I’ll try to print a smaller version. I wish I could create a rig that would properly rotate the full 360 to automate a lot of the process of scanning a small object.
I have been using the auto turntable mode with the multiple passes, single frame. I would like to try continuous but seemingly no matter what I do it will cause alignment issues.
The Auto mode have build in 360 angle capture settings , but you need to rotate everything each time or rotate the scanner in a new position after each angle capture.
I scanned a coin using it and a simple screw what is much smaller than what you trying to scan without issue.
Even with your current setup you should have not much issues capturing it .
Full Field is ok but it gives you slightly less quality than Auto mode .
I just wondering where is the issue with your scanning , the setup of the turntable or the distance or angle of the scanner relative to the object .
Maybe try different setup under the turntable sertings and capture more frames , but still it should be just fine with 36 frames .
What I use is just couple of cubes around the scanned object and it works just fine each time .
Ah what I mean is both X/Y. As there’s always some under areas that don’t get captured. I’ll just have to rotate the object or merge I guess. But I was just having some issues with merge and extra noise/shell issues.
I’m curious as to what my potential issues is as well. My setup looks like this atm but I’m very happy to change it.
Ok but less is better , the scanner is projecting a pattern like a movie projector on a screen so you don’t want to wash off the pattern with too much ambient light . Having controlled lighting will deliver better results in general .
The scanner captures only the lines it project on the surface and not the object itself .
Is it best practice to focus on depth exposure being 1? I’ve heard it’s best to use manual exposure and adjust the object distance vs auto depth exposure. I’m just a little confused on how exactly that, and the red and blue details in that exposure preview work. I’ve heard from some sources you want no red or blue. But others say you want a little etc.
Lastly how important is priming white, footspray powder or scanning spray overall? Footspray definitely seems to help, but is just priming it all white/satin or matte equally as effective?
I really appreciate you answering all these questions. I have extensively done research and looked around in the forums here too. But info is all over the place
