Yes you can , but please wear a mask doing it , you don’t want to breathe it .
You can also use fine brush to cover the object with the zinc oxide+ alkohol mixture .
The point is to get as thin layer a possible , and not uniform dusting can affect the scanning surface so be gentle , less is more .
I was thinking more of a forensic fingerprint duster for non-metallic powders (such as zinc oxide). The nice thing with a fingerprint duster is that it does apply a very thin layer of dust to the surface when used properly.
Just seems to me that working with dry materials is preferable to wet, especially around electronics.
And yes, any time working with powders, it is a good idea to wear a mask.
@drkenb
you would also have to have your part completely degreased or you would end up revealing fingerprints. i believe the alcohol helps with a not perfect clean surface.
@luccas222 did you manage to fix the noise in the mean time?
I did yes, some… not all, I increased table speed until the “lost track” red warning was the bare minimum… but I would bet that the noise was reduced by ZO coating… but I would have to make a few more tries scans to confirm that.
What I got in return was a few gosting details for the tracking being lost, but nothing to worry about.
Indeed the scan was so good that I printed and primed, now I just have to decide how to paint it.
I downloaded CC a few days ago and I found it too complex so I decided not to enter that world. But I will give it a try. Thanks a lot for taking the time!
I tried and it did a good job. Now I need to understand better the process. But I managed to follow all the steps and exporting the cloud back to RS5 to mesh it up.
The whole topic here is using zinc oxide around electronics! Your computer and scanner are both electronics, as is the electric turntable. I just feel safer not having any liquids in the vicinity of those electronics. I can dust the object I wish to scan in a safe area, then bring it onto the turntable dry vs bringing it onto the turntable wet. Or are you saying to apply the solution wet, then let it dry and then bring it to the turntable?
When I say “dust” I mean applying as you would fingerprint powder, not dusting of crops! When done properly, there is no cloud of dust created.
The bottom line is, zinc oxide powder and zinc oxide wet are both dangerous to electronics and thus both require appropriate caution when using. For me, powder and a brush is easier to use than powder suspended in a liquid and a brush. It comes down to whichever you prefer to work with. Either way, caution is the operative word!
I should add that I think your suggestion is a good one: use corn starch rather than zinc oxide (dry or wet). That is probably the safest option all around.
Yes, you are right, and i’m very sorry if my comment sound rude… I didn’t meant that.
I used ZO with my airbrush as suggested in a few other topics, the alcohol once sprayed evaporates very quickly and I use a carbon mask always.
I also recommend to do this in a separated space, specifically for that. Because as you said, we are dealing with electronics everywhere.
I saw people spraying with things directly on the turntable… that’s a huge NO to me… even with titanium dioxide.
I did once tried to powder some pieces with baby powder leaving a very subtle coating, but I preffer the ZO.
I really think you have to try anything you may find useful, and build your own knowledge on try and error.
That said, PUTV has an extensive knoledge and I find all her expertise very important and time saving. In my case, the learning curve was reduced a LOT thanks to what she found and shared.
Let us know what you achieve with your technique, maybe it’s much better than spraying and much safer for lungs!. Cheers!
guess i buried my own question answering the tips on CC
@PUTV is there a reason to use Zinc over Cornstarch?
And why isnt Cornstarch more used and promoted as a option since it seems to me not only is thinner particles as it is biocompatible and non harmfull to the objects/body, and also not harmfull if inhaled unlike alc
Oh no, you absolutely do NOT sound rude at all! My apologies if my reply seemed to imply that. I think you hit the nail on the head with your comment, “you have to try anything you may find useful, and build your own knowledge on try and error.” Everyone is entitled to having their own preferences, and I guess this issue is absolutely no different!
Cornstarch granules are very fine, making it naturally abrasive on atomic level.
It is also on some level conductive when mixed with other stuff and include sugar .
Biodegradable electronics are created from cornstarch.
Many people are also allergic to corn starch . It can affect breathing if inhaled while spraying or dusting , the particles are too nano …
That maybe it is not used in any 3D sprays
I am allergic to corn syrup and any form of corn sugar so for me is a big NO .
I only know both should not be used on electronics , ZO conductive and CS abrasive. And I mean directly on electronic components .
Corn starch can linger in the air due to it’s fine particles , ZO no-nano can’t , for that reason buy always No-Nano version as it is safe .
Zinc Oxide no-nano is used in cosmetics , sunscreen sprays and it is safe as long it is not nano version , cornstarch is nano so bad if you inhale particles as it is abrasive.
I think the most safe form no matter what you use is mixed with alcohol and not dry form .
You can simply paint with brush your elements let it dry for 1 min and scan without any exposure to particles in the air … if possible you can wash it under running water as well to avoid any airborne particles at home . I use it very often by simply brushing wet on small elements , coins, dental , black fragments on scanned objects . For bigger object airbrush .
For example you scanning some plastic objects where it have black plastic text , or elements in it , you can mix ZO with little of alcohol, take small brush and with one stroke paint over a thin layer just to cover the black text slightly or metal elements without the need to cover everything . And you are ready for scanning in a seconds …
It is very handy in many situations and wallet friendly solution .
1lb of it will last you forever , I have my 1lb bag almost 3 years now , using for precise scanning .
This is a very interesting thread. Thank you all for your observations and sharing your experience. This discussion of inhaling the coating substance or allowing it to be “in the air” is concerning to me in the context of the scanning sprays (AESub, ATTBlime, etc) in that any of these aerosol sprays put a cloud of product into the air. I use a respirator when spraying them just as I would any kind of spray paint but I fear for those whom don’t. What are your opinions on these types of aerosols and their safety for their users as well as electronics? I’m definitely going to look more seriously into ZO + alcohol use instead.
I’m used to wear protection since I print with resin. Carbon filtered mask, nitrile gloves and googles are a must and I’m used the them. So I agree, you should avoid to inhale any form of floating particles if you can. You don’t know how it can affect you in the long term, and you can’t trust that the manufacturing process of a product is 100% free of other substances potentially harmful to health.
I’m very concerned on how alcohol can transform a harmless odor on resin to a very dangerous VOP/POC when you clean a piece. So I definitely not recommend to spray anything without a proper mask.