I have ordered a 1 lb bag of the non-nano ZO as well as a small “fingerprint” dusting brush, and have tons of alcohol here so I’m going to try both. The objects I will be scanning are not electronic components, rather are plastic. I also constructed a black “box” around my large turntable so that I am not picking up any other objects (such as the white walls behind me) and it will be interesting to play around with a bit.
Thanks for sharing all your experience - much appreciated!
I have a can of AESub that I received with another, much more expensive scanner that I returned and the seller didn’t want the AESub returned, so that’s how I got that. Have yet to use it since spraying an aerosol spray it not something I want to do in my home. But when I looked it up on Amazon, I almost soiled my undies at the price of a single can!!! ZO is a MUCH more pocketbook-friendly solution for all those of us who are not wealthy, which is why I honed in on this thread. Very educational!!!
To be fair, the AESub and ATTSublime are both “sublimation” coatings. E.g. - they evaporate after a certain number of hours leaving no residue behind (allegedly) and thus requiring no clean-up. I’ve used them and I like them but I’m really liking POTV’s suggestion of spot-painting dark or transparent areas only with ZO + alcohol (or dusting). BTW, I like your fingerprint dusting idea. I just have no dusting skills… yet.
I stopped using AESUB, the layer thickness was not good for me neither the smell and it was kind of reactive with the surface, and switched to Attblime as they have much better products , I also use their product in a can , where I can use own airbrush or just brush it on a surface on a objects like electronics where ZO don’t apply for any reason .
Not to mention cans are cheap as well and vanishing after application so not cleaning needed .
And of course @aolshove you need to be in well ventilated area wearing mask when using 3D spray . And handle things carefully as with anything else .
I am actually dusting human faces with special transparent powder to avoid skin oil to scatter the infrared pattern for more sharper details , and also dusting the hair and facial hair very slightly so the color is still the same but less reflective …
Works wonder …
Big barber brush and transparent cosmetic pressed powder
Less is more …
My favorite almost not visible
I never dusted with ZO before … it tend to stick to stuff and will dry out your hands so avoid contact of dry form with hand skin .
that finishing powder is the one you use for the hair too?
AESub and ATTSublime are both very expensive, IMHO, and the only real advantage I can see is that they are sublime. That’s a LOT of money to spend simply to avoid washing the item off. Of course, some items don’t lend themselves to a bath.
Cornstarch is very sticky & not the easiest to work with. Personally, I’m looking forward to receiving the 1 lb bag of n-n ZO I ordered off Amazon (along with a dusting brush). Going to try both - dusting and the Alcohol methods. I suspect that, like most things in life, it will come down to personal preference (dusting vs alcohol painting). If you’re going to try dusting, it is critical that you use as little as possible, and take your time and go sloth-slow. 
My experience with cornstarch has been great, i use it in IPA solution CST/IPA - 1:10 and it works great does not stick to itself since it is insoluble in alcohols.
After i either wash it in tap water airblast it outside or vacum the powder with the help of a dry brush
Yes but very slightly dusting , not making it white …
You can use any mineral pressed transparent make up powder . Make sure it is mineral based and transparent . Other way you ends the same way as with the cornstarch 
After scanning you can easy to remove it by brushing your hair or just run a dry towel over your hair , on the face it will vanish by itself over short time once it absorb oil .
Less is more …
