I recently bought the MIRACO scanner, very impressed with how it handles and how easy it is to scan with, but I can’t seem to get the resolution I was hoping for. And now I tried to get some screenshots of how it was going and the scans I took with the settings, but I have no idea how to get them off the MIRACO to share them, and my computer won’t recognize it, even if I attach it with one of the USB cables included. So, to put it simply, I need a lot of help, can anyone come to my assistance?
Hi @LAMP
What kind of computer you are using to connect MIRACO ?
Did you changed the USB setting to Transfer Mode after you connected USB to MIRACO ?
Hello, thank you for responding. I am using a PC I built myself, it runs off Windows 10 64bit. All the rest of the stuff I plug in at least shows up in the control panel. I tried all the different combinations of settings for transfer, and to be more specific, I was able to get the project files transferred from MIRACO to the PC, so if it comes down to it, I could screenshot that. I had been hoping to be able to get everything working how it should.
There should be a drive show up like a hard drive or usb stik would, open that then there is a Screenshot folder
Yeah, that doesn’t pop up at all. Before we go any further down this thread of problems, let’s rule out user error. Do I need a different cable from any of the ones MIRACO came with? The cable to power the turntable seems to have the right connection ends, but I"m now guessing that can’t do data transfer?
You can’t use the turntable USB , it is not a data cable , you need USB 3 data cable .
The white cable that came with MIRACO is actually great data cable , just use USB C to A adapter or buy proper cable .
This is the cable that fixed my issues between PC and Miraco
Alright. Thanks for helping clear that up. I will have to see if I have a suitable adapter or get a new cable. I really appreciate everyone helping me out so far. I will be back with a few screenshots within a day or two. Should I start a new topic at that point, or continue on this one?
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Please continue with in this thread. The adapter and the white cable that came with MIRACO should allow you the transfer mode . It is USB 3 cable so when looking for an adapter make sure it support USB 3 … USB C to USB A
Also try different ports on your PC and once you get proper connection you should see option on MIRACO to switch to Transfer mode and a hard drive will pop up so you can get your screen shots and projects out of MIRACO .
The original white cable and adapter working fine on my PC and laptop in Transfer mode .
But for SCANNING on PC using Miraco in PC mode I needed the specific cable I mentioned early with the link .
Alright, I got the cable, everything works like it should now. On to the project I need some advice for! I am trying to scan my collection of wargaming models, as I would really like to edit them in a 3d modelling software and have some unique poses on the table, but still have them look thematically the same. I took some photos of the model I want to start with so everyone can see the level of detail I’m hoping to capture (especially after seeing some of the showcases on here!)
Now, for reference, he’s about 2 and a half centimeters tall, not including the base. Here I will show the start of the process of scanning from the screenshots I took, and maybe we can see what I need to do to improve the quality.
I hope those show the settings properly, the reason I meshed it at the quality I did was that I had seen on a different post that someone was talking about needing to keep the grid size close to the cloud point fusion setting. I later tried to mesh it on the highest quality setting, and got much the same result. I am completely ready to admit that I don’t have any idea of what I am doing wrong that so much of the detail is gone, and would appreciate any help I can get. If possible, I would like to avoid having to use scanning spray, due to cost concerns and the fact that most of my models I want to scan are hand painted. If that’s going to be the difference between what I have here and getting a good result, though, I will do that.
First of all the size of the figurines are too small to use with MIRACO , you will need MINI with 0.02mm accuracy to get better results here and capture the details , MIRACO don’t have the capacity to capture 1-1 of that scale .
You can better by using vanishing 3D spray, Attblime 3D sprays are not expensive, they have also a can 1L that will provide you lots of 3D scanning liquid.
It will not affect your paint and cleaning not required, $22 is not a huge cost for a 1L of a liquid that you can use with a brush or Air brush .
Materials like shiny plastic , resin , waxes are hard to scan due to IOR or reflection .
Some acrylics paints are not scannable for example black acrylics , not due to the color but the material that makes the color .
Can you get better results ? Yes slightly with 3D Spray but don’t expect 1:1 copy
If your minis are not painted you can use rice starch and alcohol and paint them white with a brush , and after just use dry brush to clean it up .
BTW your fusing and meshing settings are spot on !
Ah. That’s not exactly what I had been hoping to hear. Maybe you can help, from what I can tell, the MIRACO boasts a 0.02 mm resolution, same as the MINI. So what am I missing here? Would the scan look better in single shot mode? Would it maybe be better to scan for more than one rotation? I don’t really want to have to buy a new scanner without some kind of ironclad guarantee that it will do exactly what I am hoping out of the box. Sounds like I have a bit of thinking to do, though. Thanks for your help so far.
The MIRACO resolution and accuracy is 0.05mm same as POP3 .
The single frame precision is 0.02mm , precision is not accuracy or resolution , it is ability to reproduce the same copy of scan with an error of 0.02mm each time .
MIRACO is like POP3 but slightly better maybe 0.04mm accuracy , not 0.02mm
You can try single shot mode , make sure you don’t scan resin or shiny plastic , scan at least 3 angles , one angle will not give you sharp edges. At least 2 angles . Keep the distance excellent and Miraco at 45 degrees to your scanned model , the excellent distance is from the center of the turntable to Miraco .
You can get still better results since I scanned a coin with beautiful details so I guess with little practice you can get better results . Just avoid materials that diffuse light … like resin, wax, and anything with that have IOR ( high level of index of refraction )
If you paint your mini with a white matte primer, it would be a good step .
Well, I tried out the single shot mode, used the tunrtable on slow and did my best to capture what I needed. Already looks like a big difference, I’m sure with a bit more practice, using the right set up, and a few more tweaks I can get it close.
Still was just about as easy as the continuous mode, which is a huge plus of the MIRACO versus my other scanner I tried to have this project work with. I’m going to have to play around with it a bit more before I can call it good enough, but that will have to be a project for another day.
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