I know there is a learning curve, but whoah! I’ve tried every setting (except marker mode…have no desire to be putting stickers on the object every time I want to scan). Here’s my list of issues, if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. For the record, I am trying to scan a Superman figure.
a) When I scan, the scan jumps all over the place and begins to ghost the scan. Superman had 6 feet, 4 fists, and half his head missing by the end of the scan. EVEN in dark mode, it didn’t pick up his black hair.
b) Often, the tracking gets lost and cannot find it’s way back… simply because I tilted the scanner to get the bottom half of the figure.
c) I can’t find the right lighting. I have dim lighting in my house, so I tried at night using a ring light. No such luck. What’s the best type of light to use? Outdoor? spotlight?
d) How many revolutions is too many? I thought more would be more accurate, but no such luck.
Anyone have an idea on how to get a good scan of a red, blue, black, and tan superman? The Revopoint 2 is too expensive to keep if I can’t get a good scan.
It reads as if you trying to scan with Color mode activated, so that can make things more difficult (you can’t prepare it with scanning spray, dry shampoo, etc.). It is possible that the figurine is made from a material that absorbs infrared light, regardless of its outward color. Follow these steps for your best chance of a color scan.
First, try scanning as much of the figure as possible in Body mode. You may have to do multiple swaths and assemble them in Revo Studio. Don’t use Mesh in Revo Scan; save that operation for Revo Studio. Adjust the Gain for the best exposure in each section and only scan as much as you can get without losing track. After you Fuse and export the scan, return to the Preview screen to start a new scan, adjust the exposure for the next section and scan that.
Now, chose Feature, Face or Dark mode to scan smaller sections of the figure that are in the same color range, adjusting exposure as needed. Each time you press Stop, deactivate the Fuse switch before hitting Complete. Then, verify Fuse is set at the smallest number you can get (this will vary with the mode you are using; also, repeat this every time because the setting does not stick) and perform the operation. Export with a unique name.
Once you have covered each section of the figure in higher resolution, align them with the lower-resolution Body mode scan.
Buy a baby powder or dry shampoo and powder it if possible in the dark areas , you can later brush it off, black material is invisible to the scanner , only natural materials like cotton or black hair can be visible , black synthetic paints and materials can’t be scanned since the color absorb the Infrared light .
You can also mix little of a baby powder with alcohol and use simple spray bottle to cover the darker areas. Any alcohol is fine … you don’t need to make it white , a little bit will do the trick already .
But I got the POP 2 because of dark mode. Isn’t that mode supposed to scan darker colors such as black? I thought that was a big difference between the Pop 1 and 2.
I hate to ruin the figures with the dry shampoo. Will it come off or get stuck in the crevices of the figure?
If that was the case your turntable would be visible while scanning and marker mode would not working .
Some black surface can’t be scanned by Infrared light , mostly synthetic paints will not , since it do not reflect Infrared Light . It is not really about dark colors , it is about the material the surface/paint is made of.
Black plastic is not the same as black cotton , color here really don’t matters, but the material .
If your figure is not smooth and porus you can use 3D scanning spray as @TinWhisperer already suggested. If you go for AESUB , go for the orange , it will give you more time for scanning with smoother surface then vanishing next day without trace , the Blue will vanish too fast , especially in warmer humid weather it do not last 1 hour and will be not efficient. for your purpose.
You can also try Attblime 3D spray , they claim to be more superior to AESUB , I had conversation with them yesterday , I will have some samples for testing it out next week .