This is the 3D scan output. The circle is because I placed the black background with white makers (which came with Pop2. So it captures the markers and keep turning it around in a circle. The second thing is that when zooming into the model, there are some holes or the 3D model is made of small spheres. Is there a minimum frame capture which I need to adhere to?
Lighting is from ceiling and from the window. behind this setup. Without the ceiling light, it is already very bright.
If I understand you right, you want to know why the model doesn’t look complete? The holes are point clouds, and you need to mesh them so that the point cloud will be connected. Hope I have answered your questions.
After you press Stop, there is a popup. At least for the first time, turn ‘Automatic Fuse’ off and press Complete.
Then, open the Fuse options (the tiny icon next to the Fuse icon) and make sure the Pitch is set as you want (smaller numbers yield more precision, but take longer to process).
After the Fuse operation is complete, click the Mesh options (also a tiny icon next to the larger icon) and adjust the Quality and Noise as desired. Noise will reduce noise, but can also reduce detail, so you may have to experiment. Then Mesh to have a Surface object.
At this time, you can Export in the default PLY format or choose OBJ or STL.
Thank you for the video. I fuond this video too Scan | Fuse | Mesh | Skull - Revopoint POP2 Showcase - YouTube, and I am trying to scan a real skull as you did here. A real skull. Results are not steller. While the skull fits the turntable provided, it does not fit the scanner’s FOV. I did place 5 markers on the vault, there are some problems.
Which capture settings to use actually? It looks like the feature setting is the best. Marker relies on a lot more markers.
I can get a 360 degrees scan partially of a skull. This is great. But whenever I tilt the camera slightly, sometimes it captures the skull and can overlap nicely, sometimes it is way off. This is a problem too as the skull does not fit the entire table.
Freehand scanning gives worse results than tripod. I’ve been doing a lot of partial scanning with the tripod only to delete it when the scanning results in two mandibles, offset eyes etc.
I think my problem is the workflow and capture setup.
4. Should I do a fast scan first freehand, then use the tripod and the detailed scan?
5. What is the ideal setup. My scanning as the picture there is very well lit. Maybe there is a degree increment or camera placement which I need to be fix or certain from the skull?
Here is the pic and one of the tries on the laptop. Notice the matching is off now.
You need to use Face mode for this size of object , for each object you have different modes .
Feature mode is for very small objects .
My skull was 4 inches , but it was one of the most difficult scans with POP2 .
The nature of the smooth surface is not your friend while scanning . But since your scull can be taken apart , scan the 3 parts separate , the top with marker mode would be the best choice , the jawline with feature mode and the middle with face mode . Then you will have 3 parts you can put back together in your modeling program . You can also use Cloud Compare to put them back together .
@Johnathan scanned also skull also with POP2 and the results was great .
You can also put the skull on the side and use face/head mode scan one side and then stop, fuse and scan the other side , or scan separate and merge them in Revo Studio . There is many ways to approach this .
The Art of scanning is to planning how you going to do that .
Each object needs different approach. That is all the fun doing 3D scanning .
The Face, Head, Body modes are not reserved just to Face, Head, Body, that are indicators for the sizes of the objects you going to scan with .
Like @PUTV said use face mode for this size object with scanner further away from the skull, if you use marker mode you will need a lot of markers in a random pattern but I’m sure face mode will work better,
Please take the calibration board and put it somewhere safe for use in the future if you have to calibrate it, you don’t want or need it when scanning at all, i know there are some videos on YouTube showing it behind the object and i wish they wouldn’t do that because it gives people the wrong idea of how the scanner actually works, it will make it harder to scan something if anything, put the black plastic bag that comes with the scanner behind if you want to stop other things getting scanned in the background,
I saw that , it going to confuse the POP2 sensors even more .
There should be nothing behind the object unless it is very far away, or the background is made of a black plastic like a garbage bag , black silicone mat or black PVC .
Thank you. Will follow this solution next time. I have it enabled by default.
What I did was I turned off the software, unplug the scanner from the laptop and waited for a few minutes. Then replug and everything was ok. However, this problem persisted with the phone. I restarted the phone and it is still there. I cannot connect the phone (Samsung Note 20) via a USB C wired connection to the scanner. I can only connect the phone to the scanner via Wifi. Any ideas why it does not work? My phone does notice something plugged into the port. and ask for my approval. The results via wifi is not as smooth as wired connection to the laptop.