New to pop2, not an happy post!

got my pop2 a couple of weeks and since try to scan anything without success.
I tried every settings as possible combination, still not a successful scan !
I am very frustrated, on the verge to send it back for refund.

I try calibration, found a very little deviation.

with turntable, without, marker or not, high accuracy or fastscan, color or not, latest software or beta, manual or auto, NOTHING GIVE A GOOD SCAN !

WTF ???

read all about it, watch stupid tutorials, NOTHING WORKS !
use special spray for 3D scan.

I always got a scan with “elongated” part, track blipping most of the time.


what red or blue mean in the IR view ?

what is the ROI red frame in IR view ?

what mean the brown (orange) cloud points ?

Which version of the scan software are you using?
What is your setup? How is the scanner connected? Maybe you could post a photo how you set it up.

The first thing I’d recommend is go for a scan of the bust that came with the POP2.
Do only one round turn of the object, overlapping does not give a better scan.

It is normal that the first scans will not turn out as expected, it’s a learning curve filled of trail and error.


Red means overexposed. Blue means underexposed. Ideally, you want to have just a little bit of red and very little blue.
Try to scan the bust that comes with the Pop2 and then post up some screenshots of your scan. We will be able to assist you more than.


thank you.

  • Revoscan 4.3.1 and also Beta 5.0.1
  • PoP2 on USB3 to my PC (W11 pro, Ryzen 5950X, 64Gb, RX6900XT)
  • turntable set to 1/2 speed
  • using the bust provided
  • distance from model to lens 30cm

I played a bit with settings, and found when in AUTO expose for IR view, if the ROI red frame is very shallow vertical (like a vertical beam), the scan do not loose track much or not at all.

What is the ROI frame, the light measuring space ?

The distance between the model and the scanner for POP2 should be between 15-25cm in General Mode .

Resize the red frame that only cover your model surface to have best Auto exposure , works well also with color models . Make sure the frame is not bigger than the scanned model if possible

The Blue means that the area will be not scanned , also area that get white surrounded with red also will be not scanned …
A little red is ok , but if it turning white then no more , best if you get light gray image but not always possible .

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thank you

subscriber now ! :wink:

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Hello there.

Have you tired to turn down the environmental lighting in the room you’re scanning in?

It works for me, I use a blue LED and the results have been better.

Do you mean blue LED for your main light ?

It would only works if you environmental light produces Infrared light like for example some bulbs or the light from a window .

POP2 is not affected by any LED light sources at any levels . The colors of the LED do really not matters since it do not interrupt the IR pattern , so it don’t matter if it is white, red or blue .

Preferably white LED if you scanning in color is the best.

But you can scan in completely darkness … not need light for scanning … POP2 have night vision sensors :laughing:

I use the blue LED simply so I can see what I am doing on a dark room, colour irrelevant.

Thank you for stating the obvious, but some people aren’t aware of how bright light affected the exposure on the parts as I was scanning, so I thought I would offer a suggestion.

Perhaps try and not be sarcastic next time, you’ve come across incredibly arrogant

I am not sarcastic at all , just a simple information .

And perhaps I should not quote you in my post , since you see it as something against your post …
I just tried to put your reply to a next level of info .

Unless you use MINI , bright artificial indoor light do not affect exposure of POP2 since exposure can be only affected by Infrared light source , technical facts here …

P.S thank you for helping out our users , really appreciate your effort.