Hello everyone!
Today, i want to tell you about 3D-scanning tips and tricks that i use with MINI 2 3D-scanner.
And here is a tip number 0 - if you want to make a great 3d-scans, but you do not have a MINI 2, you could buy it here:
Global: https://bit.ly/4bg9Kir
US: https://bit.ly/4bdH9uc
It was a joke and here are the real tips:
PART 1. Preparation a model before a scanning
There are a lot of tricks that you find over internet, so, here i’ll tell you the only few i use most of the time.
1. Using of 0.3-0.5mm single core copper wire.
Some times, objects have a complex shape and if you fix it with a standard tools, you will loose a lot of surfaces. But! You can bend a wire as you want! Also, it is only about 0.3mm in diameter and it will not affect much on a model.
Here is an example:
I was needed to scan an impeller, and i made a construction of a wires to hold it:
2. Using of a blu tack.
Often, i am using it not only to hold a model, but as an additional object for better tracking. You should make a different shapes and put them around a model randomly. It dramatically increase tracking accuracy.
Here, an example:
I used a wire to make a cradle for holding a pendant, fix it with a blu tack and made a lot of small objects with different shapes.
3. Using a baby powder and IPA.
In most situations, it working as good, as expensive 3D-scanning spray. I poor a bottle (i used a bottle from antiseptic spray) with IPA and add there about a one big spoon of baby powder. It is cheap and effective.
But, there are some disadvantages of using it:
- it takes a lot time to dry a model. AESUB spray will dry in a moment, but drying an IPA spray may be long enough (5-30min)
- if you put a lot of spray it, probably, leak. When it dry, it will leave a smudges on a model. So, you should apply a spray carefully, and dry a model between layers at least 2mins
- some times, it is needed to apply more than a one layer.
- IPA spray produce a thick layer of TiO2 on a model. So, you will get less details in a comparision to a professional spray.
Here you can see the examples of using an IPA + baby powder spray.
A small gear:
A coin:
An impeller:
PART 2. Setup for a better scanning
If you want to get better results, you should get optimal scanning distance and optimal lighting.
First of all, let’s find the best working distance. When i received a MINI 2, i made 3D-scanning from various distances: 140, 155, 170, 185, 200mm.
Distance was measured from the centre of the rotating table.
How do you measure it?
You can use a ruler in the Revo Scan software:
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Put a model in the middle of a rotating table.
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Setup distance you need in the software:
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Align a 3D scanner. Move it back and forth till the model is cut off in the middle. All points below the 175mm are rejected, so, when you see a half of the model it is exactly the 175mm drom a cameras to the center of the model.
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Now scanner is aligned, so you can setup a distance, so the model is fully visible on a preview.
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Make scans and write down a distance.
I named every scan after a distance in mm.
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When all the scans are completed, you can compare them and find out what is the best for your device.
My best distance is 175mm and it is an upper segment of an ecxellent zone.
The worst result i got at 140mm.
Lets talk about lighting.
I am do not use auto exposure and prefer to control it manually.
It easy to adjust it with left and right buttons during scanning.
My criteria is a red dots on the depth camera display. There should be a little bit of them. If there is no red dots it means, that is should increase an exposure.
Here is what i am talking about:
Red colored places are overexposed. So, you need to reduce it a little till there will be only small red dots.
PART 3. Post-processing process and parameter settings
My post processing is simple, here is my regular steps:
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If you use one-click mode, it will calculate optimal settings… But it you use markers or additional helpers - they will affect estimated parameters.
Because of that, i prefer to make Fusion manually
Depending on size of a model, i usually use 0.08-0.15 value -
After that i make isolation at 25% and Overlay detection at 0.2mm
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Model cleaning.
Really good tool to remove a wrong points is a lasso! It is simple but very effective tool.
If you need to remove points inside a model, there is a trick:
Select all points you need to remove:
But if you press a del key at this moment, it will remove all the points you selected. So, if you need to deselect useful points rotate a model with CTRL+Left Mouse Button and deselect areas with a CTRL+SHIFT+Left mouse button and delete them by DEL key.
Deselected:
Removed:
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Meshing.
Usually, i am using 5.0-5.7 mesh quality. -
Filling a holes.
After meshing, i fill a holes. If it fill wrong, i review redundant points or polygons, then remove them and make a meshing or filling again.
BONUS. Making an IPA Spray
Here is a bottle of BPIPAS (baby powder ipa spray). I prefer to use 50ml-100ml volume bottles. It is compact and you can store it in a Mini 2 Case.
Making a BPIPAS:
1.You need one piece of a paper sheet and baby powder.
Put one big spoon of a powder in a middle of a paper sheet.
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Gently spread it into a bottle.
I prefer to fold a paper by a half and gently bump on it, so that powder move slowly to a bottle.
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Pour an IPA into a bottle and shake it.
And now your BPIPAS is ready!
Thank you for reading! Hope, it will be usefull and help you to make a better scans!