Seeking Advice on 3D Scanning with Structured Light and AESUB Spray: Challenges and Workflow Suggestions

Happy New Year everyone,

I am getting familiar with MIRACO PRO. But more than talking about MIRACO PRO, I wanted to seek advice on how to approach 3D scanning using a structured light scanner with sprays like AESUB. Below is a photograph of the object I intended to scan using the spray.

I opted to use the spray for several reasons:

  • The scanned object has black parts.
  • The object is shiny and tends to reflect light.
  • I had never before attempted scanning with dedicated 3D scanning sprays.

As you can see in the following image, the mesh result isn’t too bad:

However, as one might expect, when I apply color to the mesh, I get this result:

Even when applying texture, the outcome is predictably poor, as shown here:

During the scanning process, I contemplated this result and wondered if sprays like AESUB require a specific workflow. Maybe a scan with spray without texture and another without spray but with texture should be performed, followed by merging the two scans? What could be an effective scanning and processing workflow in Revo Scan 5.4.1? Or is there a different approach that should be taken?

Thank you very much in advance. And once again, Happy New Year to everyone.

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Hi @codabat and Happy New Year :confetti_ball:

You did good job scanning it , however if you want to scan together with textures you need to purchase another 3D spray that allows you to scan difficult objects but preserve it’s color , sadly AESUB is not that proper spray , since it is mainly used for no colors scanning .

You can try Attblime Zero , it will just frost it slightly still preserving the colors .
The problem in yours is the shine and the black parts , without slightly frosting it , it will be not possible to scan it .

What you can do else ? You can purchase Attblime ABX in a canister not a spray can , use small brush and paint with the 3D spray only the parts that are problematic to scan , this way you preserve the rest of the color and in 3D program you can easy restore the black parts by painting it back .

I hope it helps


Hey @PUTV ,
Thanks so much for your advice. It’s always nice to hear your opinion. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I will definitely try Attblime Zero and Attblime ABX and will keep you updated on how it goes. Your advice is super helpful.

Thank you again for your support and Happy New Year to you and your loved ones!

If you want a really nice texture, I recommend Blender (it’s free) for this. Take some pictures with a good cam and paint it on your Mesh:


thx for sharing!:pray: great FREE alternative to Zbrush.

Another tip if you don’t need an original texture:

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Thank you very much @SphaeroX ,
for your contribution. This approach is also interesting. In my case, then, should I take orthogonal shots of the various faces of the object (front, back, right, left, top, and bottom) and then project with Blender?
Thank you again for your suggestion and happy new year.

Yes thats the way

Hello @SphaeroX ,

I tried taking orthogonal photos as we discussed and then overlaying them in the Texture Paint view, but it’s practically impossible to overlay them, even with scaling, to recreate the texture as in the tutorial. So, I attempted to import the scan in .obj format with the texture, hoping to have it as a reference, but even after converting the mesh to UV, I have this representation on the mesh that prevents me from touching up the texture resulting from the scan. Obviously, it’s incomprehensible. Below is how it’s displayed in Blender:

Then I “detached” the original texture and tried to create a new one by coloring directly on the mesh, but the work is extremely slow and complex to achieve a fine and precise result. Below is how I am proceeding to create a texture from scratch.

Do you have any suggestions for me? I’m surely making mistakes due to my limited experience with Blender.

Thank you all again for the support.

Can u upload the mesh and the images?

When you generate a new texture, you mean that splitting is complex, right? There are also a few tricks to get straight edges first (keyword: loop tools - relax)

But if u upload I will give it a try

Do you know if there is a difference in coating thickness between the 2hr and 6hr Attblime Zero sprays?

Whilst I’m still at the stage of learning the right techniques for different objects and scanners I’ve found the Aesub Orange useful as I can go back later if there are bits I’ve missed.

I recall you saying Attblime Zero is thiner, just wondered if duration makes a difference.

Hi @codabat texturing a melon vs a more complex mesh with undercuts is not so straight forward or automatic process you was hoping for … you need to project your images from all angles , and that is a precise work, and require some practice .

Painting the mesh will give you faster results . I would do that in 5 min using Zbrush … I am also painting textures for a living for the last 25+ years

Hi Gary , Attblime Zero is 1h only very fine film , you can still see color through like a slightly frost .

I prefer to buy Attblime ABX in a canister , double cheaper and you can use brush to paint where you need to paint or use airbrush gun to spray it .
It last around 2 hours also very thin layer , specific for fine models . I also scan with it coins and dental work … very precise

I did not used the 6h … check the layer thickness under the specs … you should have not greater than 15 microns then you good … usually Attblime sprays are around 3 microns only , where AESUB Blue is 15 microns , 3 vs 15 is like frost vs avalanche
It will clog most of the fine details on the mesh , so for precision not as good .

AESUB Orange has finer thickness than Blue , but since it oxidized my coins damaging it , I stopped using it since then …it was good but the oxidation was my major issue .

You see Blue vs ABX have the same duration still ABX White is much thinner at 3 microns vs 15, they use different components, and the production and designer of Porshe , only approving Attblime for their workflow. As it gives them the best accuracy while scanning there prototypes. Attblime uses components that are favored by most designers for 3D scanning in professional world . Plus half the price … AESUB is overrated, too expensive, do not last as prescribed , not too good for higher accuracy scans . Maybe ok for Range /POP scans if you don’t care of losing couple of millimeters in accuracy .

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Dear @SphaeroX ,

Thank you for your kindness and the time you are dedicating to me. If I understood correctly, I am sharing the mesh with you in OBJ format, without texture, and the images of the six sides of the object captured with my mobile phone. The greatest difficulty when I took the photos with my mobile phone was maintaining the object perpendicular to the horizontal plane due to its irregularity and unfavourable centre of gravity. Moreover, haste did not allow me to take a picture with an alpha channel and without shadows in the background.

If you could manage with the material I am sharing, I would be deeply grateful if you could help me understand the approach you followed.

A question: why is it impossible to use the texture product from MIRACO PRO for cleaning? Is it probably more complex?

Below, you will find the Wetransfer links with mesh and textures captured with the mobile phone:

Thank you, and I want to express my gratitude for the time you are dedicating to me.
Thanks again.

Hello @PUTV ,

I imagined the magnitude of difficulty in texturizing a complex object would be greater. Do you think ZBRUSH is more versatile for this type of work? Unfortunately, for an activity that is currently a hobby, ZBRUSH is really expensive in terms of cost.

I wanted to let you know that I have received the ATTBILME AB ZERO spray. I’m waiting to find a moment to try it out and compare the results with AESUB. For now, I have purchased the spray version. Do you think I can spray the entire object, or should I use a small sprayed brush to cover the more difficult parts of the object for scanning with structured infrared light?

Thank you very much for the time you dedicate to me and for your always instructive interventions.

Thank you.

Hi @codabat the principles are totally the same and so is the workflow both in Blender and Zbrush … same ways same learning curve … I am just used to it for so long that why for me it is a quick job …

Don’t waste money on Zbrush , Blender do that exactly the dane way .

That’s great , love AB Zero , just use very fine frosting layer only … just to dust it … wait a 10 seconds to see the effect … less is more , it create so fine layer but allows you to scan anything … love to use it when scanning coins to preserve the higher accuracy if the surface .

I will upload the video and the project file soon, once I have finished everything. Here, I have only worked with textures for now. The transitions are still very sharp; they need to be softened a bit. I will also try texture painting later. What I did before in Meshmixer is that I softened the transitions in the mesh itself.

But I am by no means a pro in Blender and in light setup :smiley:

btw this one looks interesting too: Create a Smooth Material Transition | Remove Sharp Edges | Blender Tutorial (

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Now only metalic shader and done !
Very nice job @SphaeroX

P.S the face have skin tone …it is Elvis bird :laughing:

ahh yes i forgot the skin :smiley:

Here is the started image painting, as I said, a video will follow…

thank you @PUTV I followed your advice. Tomorrow I believe I will be free from commitments and I am looking forward to trying AB ZERO according to your suggestions. Then I will also try to practice with Blender. You and everyone in this forum are really special people, generous with advice and helping those who have a strong passion, but still a lot of inexperience.
I am grateful to you.