Please Advise On Scanning

[ivan]

Hi

First of all, kudos to you for being so persistent and not giving up, because MetroX is a great tool for what you need.!

Second: I’ll be completely honest: you’ve made some fundamental mistakes. You were on the right track, but then you took a wrong turn. But don’t worry, we’re here to help.

My procedure actually doesn’t different from this official tutorial:

Revopoint MetroX 3D Scanner Tutorial: Getting to Know Revo Scan 5 MetroX

The first decision you need to make: Marker Mode vs. Feature Mode. In this case, Marker Mode actually makes a lot more sense. Why? Gears consist of repeating patterns, and for that reason alone, you’ll end up with a “Pollock-style” mess Feature Mode, as explained, is intended for objects with many features and distinguishable characteristics.

So do yourself a favor and try marker mode first. UNLESS you place differently shaped objects next to or below your main object. If you do that—for example, with lumps of putty, as you tried — you’ll need to make those pieces look very different - aka easily distiguishable - from each other. Also, remember to adjust the scanning distance. People too often use the turntable with Feature Mode and place it close to a stationary background. However, this is also taken into account during tracking and messes up the tracking even when object itself is feature rich. That’s Unless you reduce the scanning distance slider so that the background isn’t getting scanned. I often put the turntable near the Edge of a table so there is greater distance to background stuff.

But back to marker mode: since the scanner needs to see all 5 markers at the same time, depending on the scanning angle, this requirement might not always be met. That’s why it’s a good idea to have these marker aids/jigs. So if you have a 3D printer or access to one, print these out. Of course, make sure, they don’t move while scanning.
Here’s an example, but there are countless more on printables.com alone if you search for “scanning markers”
3D Scanning Marker by firstgizmo | Download free STL model | Printables.com.

White object and laser-mode: indoor ambient lightning shouldn’t be much of problem. Proper brightness and exposure settings matter a lot, many users go too high - yes, one can overdo it - and the object doesn’t get scan anymore, @PUTV explained it e.g. great here

Metro Y Pro: Poor cross line scanning performance

The settings are based on the material surface , common sense in 3D scanning objects that are made from materials that absorbs in this case blue light needs higher laser settings and slightly higher exposure . Example , White objects Depth 1 Laser Brightness 5. Gray objects Depth 2 Laser brightness 7 And how darker it gets how higher the settings . Remember red color is nothing else but middle gray so it will require much higher settings . Black plastic is made from oil , oil absorbi…

Scanning distance with laser mode: Distance indicator shows the distance Level (poor-excewllet) for all parts that are being picked, ad depending the scanning scneario you see it indicating more for something more far away than the main object itself. That’s why while moving the scanner at same distance I check in the preview if more and more of object itself or the parts of it that I want to scan appear scanned, otherwise I back up with a scanner a Little bit. Maintaining the optimal distance aka on the same distance “plane” i move the metrox in circle motion and adjust this circle motion “plane” when changing scanning angle.

3. Mostly you Need about 10000 Frames for each individual scan. Mostly you Need 3 scans for proper merging after.

4. Postprocessing: One-Click SOMETIMES works great, but often it doesn use optimal settings and scans look worse than they would using Manual steps. That’s why I almost never use it for optimal results and Manual processing is very easy. Those few extra clicks can make a difference betweeen okeyish scan and great scan

5. Fusion: Software proposes optimale point-distance for fusing automatically, depending on the Quality of your scan. Normally the more frames you scanned, the lower point distance (“Resolution”) it proposes.

6. after Fusion delete unwanted parts of the fused scan using Isolation tab and selection Tools.

7. Move to overlay: for proper cleaning this can take some clicks, because you should adjust the slider for different distances, at which it detects overlaying point to delete, not only the first distance it proposes.

8. “mesh” → ALWAYS use the SAME setting for grid size (=point distance) you did for the fusion! If it doesn’t let you choose exactly the same value , use the next higher value. When using lower value the software hat to calculate for artificial points, which can make the surface more noisy.

Notice this : Learn the Difference: Point Distance (Resolution) vs. Accuracy

So, please try these steps and let us know, if you get better results.