MINI Scanning Issue - Shadow Images

I just got my MINI last week and have been trying to get a “clean” scan done but can’t seem to get rid of ghost shadows. Not sure why I am getting these multiple images from a single scan.

Can someone help this newbie get past Step 1?
Many thanks in advance!!!

Ken

Photos of how you are scanning and the settings you used.
The bottoms seems fine beside not being complete.
Was this all one scan?

Hi Ken , you definitely have here issue on the hand , this means the tracking was lost while scanning , and it is hard to imagine that you got it using the bust , as that is the most simplest object to scan .

I need more info about your process

  1. Did you used turntable
  2. Did you tried to scan it while holding in your hand

What was the general workflow you used .
As something here is not right about

I need more info , maybe a screenshot of Revo Scan etc …

I use the MINI via WiFi since my computer is not near my workspace. WiFi is 433 Mbps. My settings are:
Accuracy = High
Scan Mode = Feature
Texture = No color
Format of Export = STL

The software doesn’t have any other parameters that I could find and it seems easy to use & clear cut. I do use the turntable. I took extra precaution to situation the tray onto the turntable so that it was centered as perfectly as possible. The phone is a Samsung Galaxy S20 FE that has 128 GB storage total and 6 GB memory.

Is it possible for me to use the scanner connected to my computer using a 10 USB extension cable off a USB 3 powered port?

Hi @drkenb seems like you do it all right , however Samsung with 6GB my be on the lower side of performance especially in data and tracking , it should works fine with the bust .

What I would avoid is the lamp next to it , MINI do not like bright light so if you can limits it to minimum

Keep 10-20cm distance between your scanner and your object only for best results .

My extension is 15 ft and it works fine , but for maximum performance you can use the mobile split cable with 2 extensions , if you are using PC , you can plug both the cable to the same computer , if Mac you need to power it with a power bank or AC adapter 5V/2Am

Please capture only 360 degrees rotation of your object at once , do not over scan it multiple times as you will get ghosting as you got in your first example .
Keep your turntable at the max speed 30 sec per 360 rotation .

I also would recommend to export it as OBJ in place of STL , you losing lots of data saving it as STL plus the model is not even water tight .

Thanks to all for the suggestions - I finally got a good scan! Things I did were:

  1. Turn the light off that was directly adjacent to the turntable;
  2. Jacked the speed of the turntable up to max;
  3. Connected to my Win11 PC using a 10’ USB extension cable to a powered USB 3 port;
  4. Made sure that I did not do more than 360 degrees (or as close to that as I could get).

Here’s the results of the scan:

Again, a heartfelt “Thanks!” to all of you for your valuable suggestions - greatly appreciated!

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@drkenb that is a good start already , but you can do it even better .

I suggest that after you stop the scanning and move to fusing , you set the fusion pitch point to 0.02mm , it will produce high accuracy point cloud , after that is complete , under the meshing set the value to 6 then denoiser to 3 and close holes for best meshing quality .

I see your model looks good but is on the lower accuracy .
Next time check the fusing settings and meshing settings .

On the Phone we don’t have the choice for quality and meshing but on computer you do .

Thanks for that additional info. Worked like a charm. But…

I think I may have purchased the wrong scanner for my purposes. I am looking to replicate 3.5" and 5.25" floppy drive cases and I don’t think the Mini is the one to do it. The overall dimensions of the case are 20 cm x 10 cm x 5 cm. I’ve been playing around with it today with the top half of the case & got absolutely nowhere. Should I have purchased the POP2 scanner?

Not really , the size is still just fine to scan with MINI .
I expect you getting troubles with tracking the object .
You would need to go through the same when using POP2 .

Anyway can you share a picture of what you are trying to scan ? I may give you some idea how to approach it .

Thanks for the offer. I am attaching photos of the top half of the drive case.

Can only attach 1 media file/post, so I will post the 2nd photo next.

Here’s the other side of the top half of the case:

As I expected it is not a simple object to get it scanned , the paradox with 3D structure scanner is that the object need lots of features to be scanned easy , low feature objects are very difficult .

You will have great issue to scan the top and bottom and even merge it , objects like that are easy to be modeled so not really what I would scan with a 3D scanner as the time you will have to spend on it will cost you a lot .
Doing thing like that you need to have some 3D modeling skills to make reverse engineering of that scan .

MINI have also so small FOV it is simple torture.

Try to add small objects around it to keep tracking , if not working you will need to use markers, a lot of markers and use marker mode to get the job done .

Scan the inside , scan the outside and merge it in Revo Studio .

It may very well be “easy to be modeled” if one know’s how. Unfortunately, I do not - I’m a complete novice. Can you recommend some inexpensive software that is easy for the complete novice to learn?

I returned the Mini and got a POP 2. It arrived today and seems like it will be better for me. I was more concerned with the specs so I didn’t realize it doesn’t come with a turntable. It actually worked out better for me since I was able to get the BAOSHISHAN 13.7" turntable which seems to be a very nice unit.

I practiced today with using markers and the scan turned out fairly well for my first attempts.

I’m going to do a scan of a smaller box so I have two scans to learn how to merge in Revo Studio.

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That was a good move to switch to POP2, it will be more versatile for you and more materials can be scanned without the need of 3D Spray .

I don’t do hard edge modeling often, mostly only organic and I use Zbrush since the late 90’s and that’s my only to go software so not much helpful here for you , maybe someone else give you some recommendations.

Check my video how to merge scans together, very easy .

I use Fusion 360 (CAD&CAM) for reverse engineering and designing new products, there is a free version for home / hobby use that has some features limited or subscription versions that have almost everything you can think of incuded, i think subscription starts at about $400 a year but they sometimes have special offers so you can get it cheaper,

I looked at Fusion 360 a while back & revisited it last night, and it still seems overwhelming for a newb like me. And it also seems to focus on animations - at least that is the impression I got from my cursory review.

I again downloaded Blender and may give that a go. I have been using 3D Builder for basic stuff, but it is somewhat tedious. Documentation is pretty much non-existent. Seems all developers these days like to believe their product is so user-friendly & easy-to-use, there is no need for good documentation. Back in the 80s there were documentation editors; these days documentation is not even an after thought… Yes, I AM dating myself (cut me open and count my rings LOL).

Honestly, the entire reason I got the RevoPoint scanner was to avoid having to suffer through becoming adept with 3D modelling software. All I really want to do is to use some software to edit an object, not to create the object from scratch.

Hope springs eternal… :slight_smile:

Thanks for sharing that very instructional video! I know I’ll be reviewing it more than a few times again!!!

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