Hi Ken , you definitely have here issue on the hand , this means the tracking was lost while scanning , and it is hard to imagine that you got it using the bust , as that is the most simplest object to scan .
I need more info about your process
Did you used turntable
Did you tried to scan it while holding in your hand
What was the general workflow you used .
As something here is not right about
I need more info , maybe a screenshot of Revo Scan etc …
I use the MINI via WiFi since my computer is not near my workspace. WiFi is 433 Mbps. My settings are:
Accuracy = High
Scan Mode = Feature
Texture = No color
Format of Export = STL
The software doesn’t have any other parameters that I could find and it seems easy to use & clear cut. I do use the turntable. I took extra precaution to situation the tray onto the turntable so that it was centered as perfectly as possible. The phone is a Samsung Galaxy S20 FE that has 128 GB storage total and 6 GB memory.
Is it possible for me to use the scanner connected to my computer using a 10 USB extension cable off a USB 3 powered port?
Hi @drkenb seems like you do it all right , however Samsung with 6GB my be on the lower side of performance especially in data and tracking , it should works fine with the bust .
What I would avoid is the lamp next to it , MINI do not like bright light so if you can limits it to minimum
Keep 10-20cm distance between your scanner and your object only for best results .
My extension is 15 ft and it works fine , but for maximum performance you can use the mobile split cable with 2 extensions , if you are using PC , you can plug both the cable to the same computer , if Mac you need to power it with a power bank or AC adapter 5V/2Am
Please capture only 360 degrees rotation of your object at once , do not over scan it multiple times as you will get ghosting as you got in your first example .
Keep your turntable at the max speed 30 sec per 360 rotation .
I also would recommend to export it as OBJ in place of STL , you losing lots of data saving it as STL plus the model is not even water tight .
@drkenb that is a good start already , but you can do it even better .
I suggest that after you stop the scanning and move to fusing , you set the fusion pitch point to 0.02mm , it will produce high accuracy point cloud , after that is complete , under the meshing set the value to 6 then denoiser to 3 and close holes for best meshing quality .
I see your model looks good but is on the lower accuracy .
Next time check the fusing settings and meshing settings .
On the Phone we don’t have the choice for quality and meshing but on computer you do .
Thanks for that additional info. Worked like a charm. But…
I think I may have purchased the wrong scanner for my purposes. I am looking to replicate 3.5" and 5.25" floppy drive cases and I don’t think the Mini is the one to do it. The overall dimensions of the case are 20 cm x 10 cm x 5 cm. I’ve been playing around with it today with the top half of the case & got absolutely nowhere. Should I have purchased the POP2 scanner?
As I expected it is not a simple object to get it scanned , the paradox with 3D structure scanner is that the object need lots of features to be scanned easy , low feature objects are very difficult .
You will have great issue to scan the top and bottom and even merge it , objects like that are easy to be modeled so not really what I would scan with a 3D scanner as the time you will have to spend on it will cost you a lot .
Doing thing like that you need to have some 3D modeling skills to make reverse engineering of that scan .
MINI have also so small FOV it is simple torture.
Try to add small objects around it to keep tracking , if not working you will need to use markers, a lot of markers and use marker mode to get the job done .
Scan the inside , scan the outside and merge it in Revo Studio .
It may very well be “easy to be modeled” if one know’s how. Unfortunately, I do not - I’m a complete novice. Can you recommend some inexpensive software that is easy for the complete novice to learn?
I returned the Mini and got a POP 2. It arrived today and seems like it will be better for me. I was more concerned with the specs so I didn’t realize it doesn’t come with a turntable. It actually worked out better for me since I was able to get the BAOSHISHAN 13.7" turntable which seems to be a very nice unit.
I practiced today with using markers and the scan turned out fairly well for my first attempts.
I’m going to do a scan of a smaller box so I have two scans to learn how to merge in Revo Studio.
That was a good move to switch to POP2, it will be more versatile for you and more materials can be scanned without the need of 3D Spray .
I don’t do hard edge modeling often, mostly only organic and I use Zbrush since the late 90’s and that’s my only to go software so not much helpful here for you , maybe someone else give you some recommendations.
Check my video how to merge scans together, very easy .
I use Fusion 360 (CAD&CAM) for reverse engineering and designing new products, there is a free version for home / hobby use that has some features limited or subscription versions that have almost everything you can think of incuded, i think subscription starts at about $400 a year but they sometimes have special offers so you can get it cheaper,
I looked at Fusion 360 a while back & revisited it last night, and it still seems overwhelming for a newb like me. And it also seems to focus on animations - at least that is the impression I got from my cursory review.
I again downloaded Blender and may give that a go. I have been using 3D Builder for basic stuff, but it is somewhat tedious. Documentation is pretty much non-existent. Seems all developers these days like to believe their product is so user-friendly & easy-to-use, there is no need for good documentation. Back in the 80s there were documentation editors; these days documentation is not even an after thought… Yes, I AM dating myself (cut me open and count my rings LOL).
Honestly, the entire reason I got the RevoPoint scanner was to avoid having to suffer through becoming adept with 3D modelling software. All I really want to do is to use some software to edit an object, not to create the object from scratch.
The BIG problem with Fusion 360 is finding a proper text or tutorial video series. Each book I find is already outdated almost immediately because the program changes more often that some people change underwear. Makes it very difficult, at best, for a total noobie to follow along when the program has changed since the text was written.
But, stubborness sometimes pays off. I found an outstanding Youtube tutorial series named " Learn Fusion 360 in 30 Days for Complete Beginners! - 2023 EDITION" by Kevin Kennedy. Although Fusion 360 has already changed a bit, it is not difficult to follow along with the tutorial. Keven is an outstanding teacher & knows the material very well. I highly recommend this series.
I’ve been spending all of my “free time” working my way through these tutorials, often repeating them several times, then trying to perform the build w/o the tutorial running alongside, until I am familiar with that tutorial’s concepts before moving onto the next, so I admittedly have not been spending any time with my 3D scanners, but I hope to get back to that ASAP.
I can see how Fusion 360 + a 3D scanner can be a most powerful combo and I hope that anyone who is quickly getting frustrated with trying to learn 360 will search Youtube for Kevin’s tutorial series.