Hello, I just got my inspire 2 and I also bought the dual axis turn table… was I being dumb by doing this? I realize now that there really isn’t a need for it that I can see. Could I get some help on how the dual axis turn table would be beneficial? Thank you so much.
You don’t really need it , but it is very beneficial if you use it especially with Inspire 2 .
It allows you to scan" at once" the whole object , by using different angles while your Inspire 2 is steady on a tripod .
I would suggest you get the unofficial DATT Controller app for your mobile phone ( android ) here : https://drive.google.com/file/d/117y5YkJN6Y2t_kGoK3P017p16WIwP169/view?usp=drive_fs
You can control it as you want .
Check the tutorial section in the forum
I understand but I was wondering can you use the turn table in marker mode or just full field? Is there a special mode I can go into? When I tried to use marker scan with the turntable it had lots of trouble scanning.
You can use it for both , marker mode and feature mode .
I am using my new Inspire 2 with it and works great .
So what is exactly the issue ? Any screenshots?
Can you explain your workflow step by step and what is getting wrong in the process ?
My issue is when marker scanning with the turntable it just loses tracking. Am I having the turntable go to fast and are all my markers supposed to move with the turntable?
The markets can’t move too fast , you need to put the scanner at 46 ° degrees at a proper distance so it can see the markers while scanning .
What mode do you use Full Field or Laser mode ? I need more info to help you out in your trouble . Because I am sure it is just a new user error .
Screenshot of your setup or a picture would help as well other way I am just guessing
Inspire 2 is so simple to use , you just need to follow the proper scanning workflow .
And check the tutorials
I can assume for sure that it is new user error. I am using parallel lines trying to scan a shoe I have it on the turn table and I will now try with your new advice.
For scanning a show with the laser mode you need also the markers on the hat sheo ,laser scanning do not work without markers in this case
I would suggest you use Full Field on the turntable , let it spin with the sheo on top and you can scan the whole shoe without the need of any markers at all .
You will find out that Full Field scanning is much faster and require less hassle
The Parallel laser mode not only require markers all over if the object is bigger but also require at least 8000 frames to be collect so a lot more work compared to Full Field .
Let me know how it went
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Okay so I have been using the marker scan and with your help it looks great but I have a new question. How do I make my models easier to 3d print? Here is a test model that I scanned that I am trying to 3d print? I really just need no know how to make the top smoother even when smoothing it like crazy in Revopoint software.
Try to use lower meshing , over meshing will makes the scan looks noisy .. you can also simplify it after meshing and rt.ive at least 40% of the raw noise to get smoother results yet keep the details
You see beside printing organic stuff only direct after scanning , Anything that is not organic require usually to be reverse engineering with a software to get all the edges and flat surfaces perfect
3D scanning will not provide vide CAD model , only a reference .
So in this case where you don’t have much of 3D editing skills , try meshing it on lower settings or simply the mesh after , and your results will be much smoother and easier to edit after with the brush as only the important edge will be preserved in that process .
I hope it gives you some ideas for the next step .. you will get there in no time , I am more than sure about that , just little more practice …
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Thank you so much! But sorry I am a little slow, what do you mean when you say meshing it on lower settings? Like a lower quality mesh? Also I am very impressed with this scanner right now as the scan was within 0.002” of the real object! That’s just insane to me as it was cold and I was scanning an aluminum object that was metallic and not sand blasted or anything.
The meshing is not really Quality , it is a resolution .
High Resolution can’t give you better results than the point cloud provided , for example if you fused at 0.10 mm you should use GRID settings at 0.10 mm while meshing , this will give you 1: 1 results based on point cloud without inducing too much artificial points that makes the surface not smooth .
If you use laser mode , make sure you capture at least 10.000 frames per scan for the smoothes results .
Nobody fix scans , they need to be captured and processed the proper way to be accurate with the original as closer as possible .
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Alright I will try with your advice! Thanks for the help!
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Anytime @Chiknalaking
If anything else let me know !
Hi @Chiknalaking ,
as @PUTV said, you will not get a 100% clean scan of a totally even surface, what makes it difficult to “copy” such parts by scanning and simply 3d-printing that kind of objects.
But sometimes you can do a little trick with your slicer, if you don’t need full accuracy in all dimensions. In Orca you can add negative objects and place them just diving a bit into the uneven surface of your part, just enough to hide the “hills”. Slicing will subtract the negative (a cube for example) from your object and the result will be a totally flat and even surface.
This will not work on very complex objects but sometimes this is an easy solution.
I don’t know Prusa, but as this is a feature of Bambu and Orca slicer Prusa can do the same.
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