For POP 3 to be able to use old type of Stabilizer you will need to purchase USB micro B female to USB C male make adapter , sadly there is no way to find on a market this type of adapter , trust me I searched for long time , the one I found are out of production .
So what I found is a USB Micro B female to USB mini male and then used another adapter USB mini female to USB C Male to make it works .
I’m planning to cut the cable and wire a USB-C socket on to the end. I don’t believe the hand-held stabiliser is using anything more than normal USB lines (+5v, Gnd, Tx, Rx) or it wouldn’t work with the Mini adaptor you are using there.
You can get DIY USB-C sockets that are easy to wire if only using standard USB connections.
I would cut the cable and replace it Andrew , but I also use it with older scanners , I wonder if the cable provides access to the play button as well or it is just separate function in the Stabilizer body , and the cable only supports power and nothing else . In that case you could replace the socket . Let me know what you found …
P.S Revopoint may release proper adapter so hold your horses … however it is easy to buy USB micro B male to USB C female , but not the other way around
This is the thing, if I replace it with a USB-C socket (not a plug) then it will still be useable with the other scanners using the included Micro-B to USB-C cable that came with the Mini and Range. Not sure about the Pop2 though as I think that only came with a normal USB cable. Can’t remember which cables went with which as I just use the Micro-B to USB-C with all of them.
ok wait , the mobile split cable use the USB A for power ( the USB C male only for data ), you would need to get yourself short USB Micro B male to USB C male
Shame that the stabilizer had permanently connected cable with mini/pop2 connectior. When i ordered mini combo i thought that cable was removable. Generally it could be used as a camera gimbal too but that cable is in the way there just hanging. Not really fan of the solution they used.
That’s what i ment. For something like action cam or phone could be useful.
It does great job at eliminating shaking and small movements when scanning in handheld. And that tilt and pan with joystick without moving the hand is beautiful. So it would also be useful for smaller cameras etc.
I just tried with a phone but it was too heavy , probably would works only with some very light action camera like go pro since the capacity is very low .
And yes I agree , it would be better if the cable could be replaced but nobody expected that the new regulations would request USB C only on all devices … so probably new version will have USB C only .
Found these, i’ve ordered a couple to see if i can make a printable housing that insures good conectivity and similar performance to a direct connection
Johnathan once found this one for me when I asked him about if it was available in his area , hopefully the 15 cm of length will be not a problem , it is 1.5 Am only , hopefully enough for POP 3 , I think it runs at 2Am ?.
I am getting today my USB C for DIY following Andrew’s tutorial
Ken be careful , sometimes they listed it as Micro B, but it is just a micro , real Micro B male is what you see on the end of your USB cable of your scanner .
Late reply but for anyone that may find this in the future:
You can directly convert these to USB-C or even retain both. I actually modified mine by installing a USB-C port on the main “shaft” that connects to the part the scanner connects to. This allows me to retain the ability to use a scanner that uses a Micro-B 3.0 port, but also use a USB-C cable (to connect the stabilizer to a scanner like the POP 3 and supply power) if I desire. I put it vertically on the part facing you when holding and scanning.
You can pop the side cover off by using a razor blade (don’t hit the electronics inside) and going along it - it will pop off to reveal a circuit board. Right near the center of the hole, you will see a red/black wire that runs to the Micro-B 3.0 plug - there’s literally ONLY two wires going to the scanner; power and ground. You can convert it to a USB-C cable if you prefer by using a USB-C male cable and soldering it to these pads in place of the Micro-B, of course routing it along (but then you need to remove the clip-on part, by popping up the rubber pads and removing four small screws in the well, then popping the housing it goes over top off with a rzor blade).
At any rate, it’s also doable by just chopping the micro-B and soldering it to a USB-C male port that only supplies power. This is the ‘easiest’ way with no disassembly, if you’re nervous about it / don’t have amazing soldering skills, and don’t plan to need anything other than a USB-C end.
