Since laser mode will be new to some of you and it is slightly different then the other scanner.
I’ve put together some tips and tricks.
Before we start let me explain this “Preset Point Distance”
This setting is for the scanning preview (real time preview point distance).
This does not affect the final scan.
Here is a scan done at 0.3mm Preset and 2.0mm preset.
As you can see the 2.0mm looks very pixelated compared to the 0.3mm
But once both are fused (0.2mm for this example) They look the same.
Why might one use this?
If you are scanning a large item with low details. You can use a higher preview distance.
It can make scanning faster as the PC/Mac is using less resources to display the data to you. Mainly for feature less items like a fender or hood
However
If you are scanning a detailed item.
You would want to use a lower preview point distance, this would allow you to better see what areas of the scan are missing or not fully captured.
Now on to the scanning
Firstly, note all laser scans will need to use markers.
This does not mean markers will be needed on the item itself, but they must be in view while scanning.
Correctly Setting up your scene .
Laser scanners like to see marker head on or perpendicular to them(90degs).
Once you go below 45degs, 30degs or so, it will have a hard time seeing those markers.
So try to keep markers 45-90 degs to the scanner. Remember this is to the Makers not to the item.
Marker items can great help with this. These are ones I use often.
They allow you to move below that 45deg mark as these marker items are degree.
Incorrectly setup
If you set it up as pictured.
The sides and anything under the top face would be hard to scan.
Both sensors need to be able to see the laser lines in order to capture that point.
In this example ill explain more on that.
As you can see from the photo. The left and right sides cant not be seen, mainly only the front facing area.
If you look at the rulers you can see the path of the sensors. Left sensor can see the left side but not the right and vise versa.
Some of the sides are shown from me moving the scanner left to right to scan.
The scanner will only pick up on the small areas that the line touch.
It is best practices to move the scanner in a paint brush like motion, back and forth over the area. Do this until that area has turn green indicating you have collected enough data in that area.
If you do not collect enough data and that area is on the red side. Once you fuse the model it will be fuzzy or very rough texture. So make sure you scan all the item until its as green as it can be.
Back to the Gear scan
So we want to lift the item up.
Now you will be able to see under it, but it is not enough for me.
So raised it up higher and remember we need markers angled so we can scan at those angles.
Much better now.
Scanning it
I start with a top down scan and quickly scan the areas with the markers. Not worrying to much able the item.
Once ive done two to three passes around, then I start to focus on the item.
When it is showing fairly green, I move on to angle scanning.
Tilting the scanner sideways and angling it to capture the edges and underside as much as possible.
Fused and isolation
Scanned the rear the same way.
Then trimmed out the back ground.
If your item is symmetrical or there is not enough overlap between the scans merging will fail as pictured below
You can not correctly place the front and back of a scanned item with just sharing the small sides in common.
You need something that overlaps the front and back so you can join them together.
So a third scan is done.
This will be the 3rd scan. It has portions of the front and back.
This was scanned the same way as the other two. Top down to collect all the markers then shifted over to one side and scanned parallel to the item. Move around to the rear and did the same.
Now the front can be merged to this scan and then the rear to the merge
And we have 3 scans merged together for a fully complete scan model.
