Red / Blue highlights

In the Revo Scan UI’s bottom left view, the image highlights some areas red and some blue. What do those mean?

Hi! Well actually that is clearly explained in the manual, which I highly advise you to read first.

Blue and red colors show under- and overexposed areas. You should adjust the gain setting before starting the scan so you have as little red or blue surfaces as possible. Then you’ll get better results!

4 Likes

But if you use MINI and scan in color , you can ignore the red areas all together as you will need to increase the gain to capture some colors . Avoid blue areas definitely as blue areas will be not scanned .

1 Like

Not sure I follow PUTV - the depth gain dictates the accuracy of the depth captured - over-exposure will demolish the accuracy I find. So why would you ignore the red areas when scanning in colour - the colour scan just maps the colour to the locations detected by the (now massively overexposed) depth, no?

@JamesBuckle because MINI can’t scan most colors surfaces , and regular gain settings will not capture the mesh, and if the mesh is not captured, there is no color data either .

MINI needs very high level of gain for some colors , so if your object have multiple colors it is going to be very tricky to capture it .
Same for scans without color , that why it is recommend to use 3D spray for best results .

Maybe just try it in place of analyzing it , MINI is simply blind to many colors that absorbs blue light , so the gain need to be adjusted to the level of absorption, because if you don’t, you will get simply a hole .

So to make it short, you can’t scan white and red surfaces at the same level of gain .

1 Like

I think you missed my point. You said if you scan in colour, you can ignore the red areas because you need to get some response to get colour. But that’s not true, you can’t just ignore the red areas, because they develop awful geometry and surface finish. Sure you might have them if you have areas that are under-exposed and some areas over-exposed, because you have to expose for the lowlights to get some data, but you can’t ignore the red - you’re better off using spray to get an even exposure rather than ignoring the red.

“Maybe just try it instead of analyzing it” - I have, that’s why I’m saying this.

If is not true how you going to capture an object in different colors for textures?
It will be impossible

So what is not true here ? If you do not ignore the red areas you will be not able to have any multi color scans , and people want a color scans with textures .

I do use 3D spray as I don’t need color scan for myself unless I do it just for showcase .

So please don’t tell me it is not true , because there is no other way to capture multiple colors with MINI using one gain settings .

And since I successfully captured many multiple colors scans , it speaks for itself .

Of course if you going for a perfect surface as I already mentioned it in my last reply , you will need 3D spray … and keep the gain at the same value for best results .

For any other user that want to capture color textures using MINI they need to ignore the gain settings as that is the only way .

And since I scanned successfully many color objects using this technique , there is nothing else .

So what is your point on that ? Do you have solution of scanning colorful objects using one gain settings beside using 3D spray that cancel the colors ?

Because that is what it is about … scanning objects in color using MINI , and if you really tried you will know by now that it works just fine .

Because in almost every multi-colour scan I’ve captured, I’ve found a gain setting where it was possible not to cause large over-exposure. In the few where I did have overexposure, the surface finish was awful on the over-exposed areas. If this wasn’t the case, why would it highlight over-exposure in depth - think about it.

“For any other user that want to capture color textures using MINI they need to ignore the gain settings as that is the only way .”

It’s not, you can finely balance it to get a happy medium - you can’t just ignore it as you will get the rubbish surface as we discussed. If you are happy to ignore the crappy finish and max out the gain, so be it.

Personally I have little time for colour scans anyway - they’re not a major part of my need for a scanner - but when I do want colour, I don’t want to lose accuracy.

It depends of what is the color palette here , some need gain settings at 10 , other at 1 , there is no middle setting for that kind of situations and that is what I refered to .

You scan first the color parts that starts at gain 1 , after one rotation is done , you increase the gain to capture the second color palette that needs higher gain settings and you do this way until you capture it all .

That is how it was designed to work.
Middle gain settings do not works for all color combinations as it is simply impossible, since yellow, dark green and red are basically invisible to MINI or below gain setting of 5 , where 2 are overexposing white color already …

Middle gain setting do not excist in this case as something gonna suffer badly doing it , unless you scan pastel colors .

Anyway there are no one settings to cover everything as each objects is unique so are the workflow and settings to capture it the proper way , and if you see my MINI thread you can see how well my workflow worked out …

Edit: and I refer only to scanning with MINI and difficult colors , POP2 or any other infrared scanner works differently and the importance of gain settings in a proper balance is a must have .

Red color don’t means it is already overexposed , it is on the edge to be overexposed , other way it would be not possible to scan white objects as all white objects I am scanning have red area at gain setting 1 still the surface is perfectly fine .

1 Like