I’d like to start quoting PUTV. As usual of HUGE help!
"Vertical strips has to do with the frames and how fast the scanner can produce the frames , so if you got vertical strips this mean that the object rotate too fast on the turntable or the processor is too hot to produce 10fps "
This is what I’m getting and messing up my scans. Tracking especially.
Is this a problem concerning the PC I’m hooked to?
Wireless connection issue?
My wireless setup is with an oldish MacBookPro (Nvidia) with Bootcamp Windows. The scanning software makes it red hot.
I also get it when USB connected to my Samsung Book. Could it be related to poor power supply?
I’m shooting at different directions because my sensation is it could be related to different things.
Since most of my activity is outdoors, I’d like to get a clue.
Hi @giuspa did you got the last Revo Scan 4.2 version ?
You can also download Calibration software from the Starting Points/ Download section from the forum
And make Calibration test making sure the value is at least below 0.9000
The vertical strips happening only if you scan too fast that include your hand movement , for MINI the turntable speed is the best at 30 , for POP2 30-60
Also check if you have new firmware update available for your device .
It is possible that the speed of data is too slow since you experiencing also tracking issues , did you tried to switch to the mobile split cable and use extension cables with it , as that what I am using since most of my devices do not works well with a single USB cable .
If you use Windows computer you can powering your device direct from your computer as well as data using your mobile split cable .
It provides the best performance on data speed and power supply .
Last Revo Scan Softwares
Scanning speed / turntable
Mobile Split Cable
That’s all you can do for now and see if thing improve
For some reason I can not complete the new calibration test but the accuracy check is showing a good 0.2 value.
The other bullet points are all honored.
What looks PROMISING is the Mobile split cable in place of the USB/C one when connected to the PC. Now the whole scanning area is showing with blu feedback.
The following image showing what I had before with the turntable still!
I would also like to ask your opinion about a different task.
I need to scan the wood (teak) parts on a boat so to make digital jigs to laser-cut replacements parts in different material.
Image is to give you an idea.
I can scan at dusk/night with no problem. I don’t want to waste more of your time asking how… but do you think this is feasible?
If for any reason you run into Rhino, I’ll be happy to exchange help if needed, as I work for McNeel,
If you mean the value is 0.2 and not 0.02000 then the value is very poor and that may explain why you have issues with tracking or artifacts on your scan.
I personally would not want the value to be above 0.09000
Please try to calibrate your device if possible .
Calibration works better if you have some extra light shining on the calibration board so do not calibrate in darkness.
Also if you use MINI , it is sensitive to LEDs with cool tones and outdoors light , with POP2 you can scan at dawn/dusk/night without issue outdoors .
That’s very bad what you have on the image , I hope it shows now solid blue in the preview , any artifacts you see in the preview can influence your final scan .
Everything is possible, but not everything will be an easy task , I think you would profit here from the upcoming Revopoint Range Scanners very much as the task would be so much easier to accomplish, you could scan the whole boot without much effort.
With POP2 would be much easier , I forgot what device you are using to be honest , but in both cases MINI or POP2 will need a markers for the flat areas or of you can adding some small elements to it that can be ignored layer in reverse engineering. You can even stick partial painter tape fragments to the surface to create the tracking features for the flatter areas for the smooth process .
But definitely you need to do that or with Marker mode ( lots of markers) or with adding elements to the surface , without it you will get mandala effect and lose tracking very quick .
And you don’t waste my time @giuspa , thank you for the offer…I tried Rhino very long time ago but I am native Zbrush user since 1998-99 and original first beta tester of the software, I do generally everything inside the software . My specialty at work is organic modeling , human forms and texturing .
But never say never right? Thank you I will remember …
If anything else , please let me know and try to calibrate your device ASAP.
I read ref. value. think this is the max deviation at the maximum distance.
Being below that value makes me think I’m OK…
Indeed a more clear interface could be easily implemented IMHO… maybe a gauge with color scale showing what’s perfect, good, fair, inadequate.
So you are on ZBrush! Great product. We have a new tool for quadremeshing that makes it ideal to go from any mesh triangulation to quads. And ZBrush loves them as you know.
If the value is below 0.5000 it suppose to be fine but to be honest it is not always the case .
The value you got of 0.1690 is still high for my liking ( officially it is ok but), I would not write this parameters and re calibrate it again where you get at least 0.1000 - 0.0900 or lower ( lower is better)
Make a calibration test after each calibrate , 3 times , and the lowest value will be your best score .
That would be great , however the calibration results differ from one device to another and not one is a like , I have one of POP2 device that never can calibrated below 0.0900 and another that calibrate to the value of 0.0270
But I can notice the difference if my device is above 0.1000, especially color / textures getting off and some artifacts and overlap appear.
That is very useful tool , I do remesh most all of my scans before editing , I may try the demo in my spare time to see what’s new .
Latest update and some conclusions.
I was able to calibrate to a nice: 0.06 after several lighting attempts.
In the following images I am with the Pop2 ona tripod standing still.
Still getting vertical perturbation stripes in preview. Marked in yellow.
Did ANY kind of attempt an combination: light, no light, external power supply… no changes.
I think a word from Revopoint people should be heard at this point.
Does any of them read the forum BTW?
Either the unit is faulty or the firmware is bad. Maybe both.
I understand that scanning takes dedication but in my case I am taken away the opportunity to even start!
The best part of all this is your support. The rest - so far - very frustrating.
Dear PUTV, guess what…?
New unit just arrived and it’s a different story. The preview is what you would expect, so I’m starting my “POP 2 second life”
Everything looks promising and I guess my previous experience will help in the learning process.
One thing is still out of control and it’s calibration.
I have an accuracy test reading 0.24… out of e reference 0.5
As per our previous post I see it should be somewhere below 0.09.
Calibration is impossible to carry out through stage 13 (first inclined board photo).
Any combination of light and using the latest software release. Truly any possible combination. Believe me. I have read the threads on this topic.
There is a repeatable pattern though.
During the first photo on the inclined board the sensor is able to detect proper inclination (line tilting) and requires to get closer. I am able to do so, but as I close in the dashed square getting close to the red one, suddenly switch to the message requesting to aim to the large dots. It never gets green and ask to stand still.
I am also using some aid to stabilize the scanner and move it closer with really smooth and slow motion. To no avail.
If I go on purpose closer than needed, I never get the message to “go further” but it will stay all the time with the message to aim at big dots.
Hi @giuspa that is good to hear that you got your replacement.
Regarding calibration , 0.2400 is not so good , but I hope you made at least 3 tests and the livest should be your actual number , anything below 0.0900 is good enough already .
The step you describe is one of the difficult one .
And I go through it many times , not easy task .
One advice I can give you , shine some artificial light on the board while calibration , it will helps taking the steps much faster since the device taking pictures of the pattern , too low light condition made the tasks even more difficult .
For us on the horizontal line where you see the damn dots passing through the big dots , that’s your guide line for the horizontal level .
There is really not other trick with it other than going through it and practice .
From my own tests , you can also make your scanner in one steady position and move only the board below , it is more difficult but you can also calibrate the scanner this way with success .
Sorry I wish to help you more on that but since you read already the rest , there is nothing else to improve the step .