@Zzz that is not completely true in this case, I scanned today smaller objects than this one , 2mm was picked up … without issues , but if you keep scanning more rotations than it is necessary then you run in trouble .
When I have tomorrow more time I will show you guys my quick routine that works always fine !
i am looking forward to
Will try this tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tips!
@botznhos
I just tried from curiosity and indeed no issue even with 1mm parts, still picked up without issue , yours should be much easier than this . Try tomorrow again and I will find one moment to make quick video
Hi @botznhos ,
I agree with the suggestions from @Zzz and @PUTV.
If you still fail to scan it after tried their suggestions. I think you can try the “Marker” mode for this object. Here is a guide for marker mode:
And like the suggestion from @PUTV, don’t scan too much frames for the same area. Usually, we suggest that you only scan one circle for the same area.
Best Regards
Cassie
Amazing!!! 
You are having much better results scanning flowers than I have been able to attain so far.
If you have the time, perhaps a tutorial posted to YouTube?
@JeffLindstrom thanks ! I found out that the software is little glitchy , sometimes the depth gain , sometimes the RGB brightness do as it please ignoring your settings what resulting in most all problems people have .
Finally getting some better results with the textures scanning , I will post my finding tonight.
this is 80mm / 3 inches tall small figurine .
and here another try with a flower .
Hi PopUpTheVolume
Nice scans!
I will follow your posts
Thanks @dfodaro
after calibration yesterday I made a quick test . I had some problem scanning this shape before , but this time it worked fine , also I scanned it holding the scanner above the turntable 20 cm from the object . I must admit that the surface is less noisy now than before the calibration .
My workflow is scanning every 300 frames and fuse , then scanning again 300 frames and fuse until you capture the whole mesh . This way if something got wrong you can undo the layers that did not got fused well or even undo before you go to fuse , make sure you check you gain setting under the Depth Camera , it is not always what it seems … it is definitely software bug , clicking couple times auto and manual back and forth will unlock the wrong settings , and if you go to calibrate please do the calibration check first and if you want to do it save the original calibration files first in case your fail . Calibration process can be annoying especially the second round , and never move the target (card) while calibrating , always the scanner
You think it just a simple object to scan ? think again … nope it is the worse but somehow I succeed
Some facts :
Do you know that POP uses infrared light "structured light” to scan an object? Cameras detect distortions in light patterns projected onto the surface in order to determine the dimensions of an object.
Infrared light can be disturbed by very bright ambient or sunlight .
Black shiny surfaces like black silicone, black materials like PU and black shiny plastic absorb 3 times more infrared light than other materials and color ? That is why when scanning it is recommended to not use any of the above materials for your objects . The plastic tournable absorbs 3 times more infrared than the white dull Bust you received with POP . However a black cotton can be scanned without issue , it is all about the material the object is made of and not the color itself .
If you want to separate the background from the scanned objects use polyester based black fabric ( for example umbrella black fabric) or just plastic ( trash bag) or black polyurethane ( PU materials) or any black silicone , velvet and black cotton will not absorb infrared light and can be visible in your scans.
fragment of a Black Cotton scanned using POP2 ( head cap, jeans , t-shirt)
Lidar bounces light off from the surface the same way radar works, but by using a laser.
and Photogrammetry uses photos to triangulate distance and depth and produces a 3D scan with that data.
POP 2 face mode , It is tricky , I need more training on scanning humans with POP2, the 300 frames per one scan before fuse still worked fine , I must switch to my mobile and try again , anyway here some tests only .
Yes it is face of Angelina Jolie scanned with POP2
Recommending to anybody , any surfaces can be scanned, spray disappear after couple of hours from the surface not needs cleaning : AESUB Blue 3D Scanning Spray - Digitize Designs
That’s a good price. I usually see it closer to $50.
Also, it’s in the United States, so that saves a lot on shipping.
@JeffLindstrom
Yeah ! I am in NYC …they have it also on Amazon but they only sell it in a big packages $250 , I am scanning mostly organic stuff , not need that much but very good stuff and I am sure they sell it everywhere as I saw the other day someone from Italy used it with POP2 and the results was amazing .
I need to buy 12 inches manual tournable that can handle heavy weight , it will make the work much smoother than walking with the scan around the object , you can cut the scan in 3 sections and finish it much faster than blindly focus on the scan and monitor af the same time .
I tried the BODY mode what was much easier , however less details . More practice needed
I think full body scan will need to be at least 6-8 million poly around 1-2GB of RAM ?
I tested today something else .
I used my old turntable that has 3 different speeds and used 3 times faster rotation than the original tournable, reducing the frames from 300 to 76 per rotation , faster scan , less data , faster fussing
no problem with alignment at all and without leaving Revo Scan …
Hi @PUTV ,
Could you please allow us to use your showcases on our users’ showcase booklet? They’re so good, so we want to show them to more users.
If you don’t want to do that, that’s ok too, it doesn’t matter.
Best Regards
Cassie
