Interesting stuff.
I’ll certainly try the gel filters, if I ever find any for sensible money in the UK. 
The drone filter lenses were cheap enough that if they didn’t work, I’d just chuck 'em in the bin and not care, but I think the ND16 (or maybe the ND8) might be seeing a lot of use.
In your experiments, what has been the highest value ND filter you have found useful?
ND 32 , 2 times ND16 , the magic is to stock up them together ( it helps with diffusing ) , higher value was already too high as I was losing the edges to blue too much, what is also not good .
And as I said before only for between 15 to max 20 cm distance , if there is no red when the gain is set at 1 , do not use it .
Hopefully the programmers will adjust the changes as I requested greater values for the gain setting yesterday showing my findings .
Karl, the ND gels are the cheapest here in US , you can search for ND light gel filters , same thing, just a sheet of tinted plastic foil to use over a lamp in photography … but I see you go pro , nice ! most important it works for you .
I’m thinking of a 3D-printed frame for the POP 2 that will hold the ND filters in a movable holder that can be slid over the IR Projector as needed.
Jeff, that would works , I think @kaczorefx was doing the same . Make sure the filter is a close as possible , there can’t be space between or it will reflect in different direction , so both sides the one from Depth camera sensors can’t get any of it . I think it will be easy task to accomplish since the front is completely flat
I’m having weird results with the ND. First of all ND8 is all I can use, ND16 blocks so much IR that I’m getting blue on the white head, and I’m like 6-7cm away from it.
Secondly I do get a lot better detail with ND compared to scanning without it from further away, that is expected. But if I repeat the scan without the ND from the same distance as with the ND, sure the ir camera preview is overblown, it’s all red, but the scanning completes fine and honestly? I’m having trouble telling the two scans apart. It’s as if overexposing the IR camera makes absolutely no damage to the scanned data :o
Also I’m a little disappointed that there is a minimum distance the scans are possible at all. At 6-7cm the scanning already works only on the righmost 35% of the object. At this distance the difference between the it projector and the ir sensor angles is just too great 
So no macro scanning no matter what we do with the filters.
You probably using the metal coated ND filter and not gel , there 2 sort of ND filter , plus the minimal distance is 15cm for best sharpness not below that , you may not see difference but I do on the cloud point data , however I do not use it for any object , as it depends what it is made off and how bad the reflections influence the point cloud data , as you know I mesh it outside , on top the 2 x ND gels should diffuse slightly the IR .
Regarding macro scanning , I am sure you will not get better details as you get at 15cm , for that you will need MINI
Perhaps the ND filter should be on a hinge that swings into place.
that would be better
I actually use this one for my 8mm lens to insert it behind , maybe you can do something like that
https://www.amazon.com/Irix-Gelatin-Filter-29x29mm-Lenses/dp/B073M4RY13/ref=sr_1_5?crid=F72149N8OD6I&keywords=ND+gel+filters&qid=1652418212&sprefix=nd+gel+filters%2Caps%2C59&sr=8-5
Absolutely interested!
This is a very inspiring thread, good job!
any advice for scanning clothes? 
cheers!
Thanks @bischoff1
Yes …get yourself a transparent plastic torso and use body mode at higher accuracy , you will be able to scan clothing and volume at the same time . Of course on turntable would be much faster and less headache, same way you will scan full body
Sorry Guys I was about to make some very cool video for you yesterday but one of my package was stolen with the accessories I needed so waiting for the claim to be resolved .
If you would like to see any other topic for next video , let me know
I made something new for myself for use with marker mode and for adding better support in marker mode .
Printed plates are ok but I like to change the position of it depends on the object size , so I here how it looks like and so far working fine .
My goal was in marker mode to have the markers not only in front but also on top when I move my POP2 up and down , usually I am losing the tracking at the angle , so now they are there from all sides
and can be arranged in any formation .
Also for extra geometry tracking I have white one
No more mandala effect
Just an idea for another day of scanning !
Why I prefer it over the printed plate ? because it uses less data in the process, and faster workflow plus I can have any size of object and I am not limited to small area.
Clever, but do these all work in Marker mode? Seems like some of them would be well-suited for Feature mode.
The white for feature mode of course , it was my typo
Where can we get handy scan?
