POP2 - My 3D Models Showcase Progress & Tips

@c_v2 I will thinking about , I made many scans already so if this was impossible you would heard about that from me already .
Maybe I do some PDF Tutorial when I have little free time on a hand


Hi Julian , thanks !
yes the top LEDs did not worked well so what I did is placed it in front top and bottom , I also purchased some additional light strips to stick them on top for the little extra , make sure you have a cold white light color for the straps .
You can use white electric tape and tape down the LEDs so they produce more diffuse light , this way you will have bottom and top equal in lighting and the extra LED you put on top and sides that will give you additional backlighting for the edges but do not put too much in the back or you will get Fresnel effect and we do not want that . The additional LED strips are just for little extras so not full power , best way to have control over it manually to adjust it to your needs . All you should care is the 180 degree FOV so only frontal and sides, the big LEDs you got with your light box should go in front .
When you scan with color textures or data , don’t put the object directly on a black surface , use something to lift it up like little transparent plastic you cut off from a water bottle

With organic models the trouble starting , many of them needs marker mode , that why I made for myself the new markers on magnets and dodecagon , so you can move freely from top to bottom .
But that don’t works with any object , so sometimes you just need to scan the angles and merge , especially when you are using marker mode , not recommend to change the position as matter mode do not care about the object features , it only track the markers .

I do almost always until I have a very easy object to scan then can run it all in one session .\You see when you scan vegetables or any kind of materials , you will need to use marker mode , make sure the object is as much as possible visible in the depth camera preview , you can use a nail or a metal pin , and pin the vegetables on it , so you actually scan almost everything at once , and if you scan only 2 sides separately you will need to use color mode and later use the color for references as your marker points for merge , some objects are soo smooth it is impossible to find a marker point , but color per vertex data can helps you , better than textures as textures shifting on each object one way or another , color per vertex data is more accurate .

yes I do scan around 600+ frames with 60 s/rev and 300 for 30s/rev
if you see strange things after fusing of your point cloud you can’t go forward and need to be redone , the mesh can be only as good as your point cloud , CC can fix it sometimes so you can try before merging .
I was scanning the other day my DSLR , around 11 sides , then when I started to merge it, I found one important side with double element that actually ruined everything and have to re scan this side again , CC was not able to fix it , so pay attention , do not fix holes in your partial scans . For serious scans I always do many sides and export my Fused partial point clouds only , the whole process can take sometimes 2 hours from scanning to final mesh and if texturing then even longer .

I hope it answered some of the questions , and thanks for the support Julian ! if you like to see some specific topic for a next video, let me know .
And if you run in troubles next time , drop in with some screenshots , it would be easier to figure out what is going on .


Omg thank you so much - it’s so simple yet makes so much sense ^^ I want to try that immidiately (don’t have additional led strips for sides yet) - the only issue is: the LEDs integrated in the box are stapled to the top of the box - I feel like I would want to not remove them if possible. I will instead just rotate the box, only issue then is that the velcro mount for the backdrop is not in the right spot anymore, but that I think can be fixxed.
Thanks so much again for the very elaborate post and all the input.

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My top LEDs came with magnets so you can attach them everywhere on the metal frame , in your case you need to get some LED strips and put them in front and sides for main light source , I got the one with flexible connectors so they bend nicely on return .

you can put 2 on left middle, 2 on top -2 below front and 2 on middle right
something like that

and the top you have already will be the ambient source for the top and back sides , then you regulate them for good balance for no shadows, the white electrical tape over the LED strips produce nice soft box light without sharp reflections or shadows.

I hope this helps to get your an idea.
Putting the LED strips the original way on top and sides that I mentioned before do not need the extra connectors as the one that came with was long enough .


Small tip for today ; When you are about to get yourself AESUB 3D scanner spray , go for the Orange , because it is much finer than the Blue one , especially for small scans , it creates much flatter surface so less details are lost and actually will last much longer, and do not smudge that easy .


OK, this is the closest I found;


@Miamijerry that’s perfect Gerald ! now if you print it in black filament it would be perfect , you will get 3 markers from any angle visible . Before you print make sure each face fits 10mm marker , or you can use simple 6mm white sticker dots , but reflective works so much better.

Then you can print couple in white matte filament and you have some support for small scans in Feature mode


Wouldn’t it be useful to deboss some designs into each face so that the scanner could work in Feature mode?

Why? if you have 10 of them already , they do not need additional details , they are the details

@JeffLindstrom look a perfect capture and I did 2 angles in one session moving from side captured fused, then from top captured fused .

Feature Mode with White
Screenshot 2022-05-19 183757

No Mandala effect :wink: I am going to tests it with the gray one I have left and cut them in half for use with even smaller objects and see how it works . The magic here are the faces on a different angle

And without


I had some spare Chromalabel white dots stickers that fits exactly in the empty spaces so now 4-5 markers are visible on an angle . I prefer the reflective as they works better on an angle but could not get smaller size than 10mm/6mm but anyway it works

Screenshot 2022-05-19 192312

Screenshot 2022-05-19 192235

There are always at least 2 markers visible at the same time to keep tracking so no blind spots
in my case 4 right now , and since it change constantly the pattern is always unique in space .


So I put now 4 only for test and it worked as long 3 of them are visible by the angle of POP2
The point of this is to capture as less as possible data for faster processing and less cleaning after.

Also reminder , you can’t flip the object to capture another angle when using Marker mode and hoping it align together , but you can change the angle of the POP2 to capture different side while your model and markers are still in the same space and not moved from it’s locations.

Marker modes are for scanning individual sides to merge them together later , so not design to capture the whole model in one session , unless you actually moving the POP2 around capturing the object but in most cases it would impossible to get everything as one side always facing the bottom on the turntable .


With individual markings on each face, you don’t need 10 at once. That takes up a lot of space and markings on the facets will allow closer scans, right?

Regarding Feature mode
Faces with extra additional features do not matters in this case since it has already many faces it don’t need anything extra .

And regarding Marker mode
As I posted above , less is needed and I scanned 19mm objects with it and objects without features .

It all also depends what angle you use and how close you are to the object means narrow view at 15cm , I tested it between 15cm to 20cm +
When you scan from above you need less , the most needed was when scanned from front at 90 degree , so the best angle is at 45 degree as usual .


feature mode with 19mm object - POP2

Without supporting objects no way to scan this kind of volume without losing track .


When you think that POP2 was everything you need .
You find this in your mail box :face_with_hand_over_mouth:


Thanks Revopoint , it is an honor to become your Beta Tester for this MINI prototype .
In 3 days I will start a new thread related to MINI , stay tuned !


3D Markers on steroid :joy:

I dropped 2 of the mini magnets into each of them while printing so they stick to my scanning plate and are easy to collect and arrange .


11 posts were split to a new topic: This is a separated complaint comments from POP 2 Tips post

It is time for MINI, new thread is here !

I have bought that thing, but anyhow all the buttons on the remote control are uselesse. i cant see any differences regarding the speed.

the speed is between 20 to 60 sec per 360 degree rotation , and my remote working just fine , you should hear a sound each time you press the button .