Pop 2 buggy issues in revoscan

Hello all,

I am trying to work through what I am doing wrong with the software/hardware thus far. I have calibrated it properly, lighting is good from what I have heard is optimal, trying to scan an uncoloured polymer clay sculpture with a variety of textures and depths.

Main issue is I can get a decent scan going until i try to move the scanner to gain better angles. The mesh becomes red and refuses to return to the normal blue/green scanning operation. I have tried many times and it continues to do so. The other issue is that I am getting a lot of buggy behaviour in the software such as auto/manual operations flipping back and forth, delete scan approving the action but not returning the setup to “new scan”, so I have to restart the program, and overall I had a lot of problems even getting the provided bust to scan in without many tries, and even still the final time that worked the details were sub-par. I understand this device and software takes a bit of time to troubleshoot and learn and would like to get some clarity here. It’s not been a very pleasant experience so far, including that the revocalibrate beta didn’t work, had to get a different version from support that didn’t work, and then was sent the wrong version, until finally they sent me the correct one for mac OS.

“Main issue is I can get a decent scan going until i try to move the scanner to gain better angles. The mesh becomes red and refuses to return to the normal blue/green scanning operation.”

In the Depth Camera display, red means over-exposure (blue means under-exposure). This can happen when you move the scanner too close to the object, but it is more likely that it is catching reflected light from the room. Without scanning color/texture, the room should be as dark as possible while you can still see what you are doing. With color scanning, use the LED light (avoid incandescent or sun light).

In the main window, red means tracking loss. This happens easily if you are not moving the scanner (or scanned object) smoothly. It also happens if there aren’t enough features or tracking aids in the current frame. Moving back to a previous view that displayed in green/blue can help reacquire tracking; just hold still for a few seconds.

“The other issue is that I am getting a lot of buggy behaviour in the software such as auto/manual operations flipping back and forth”

If you are talking about exposure (Gain) settings, the only Auto feature I am aware of is for the color camera (unless you are using an older version of the scanning software). You are using Revo Scan, right? Not Handy Scan?

“delete scan approving the action but not returning the setup to ‘new scan’”

The trash can only deletes the current point cloud; it is designed to stay in the current scan configuration so you can avoid having to return to the Preview screen to start a new scan. If you really do want to start from the beginning, then press the Stop button and click Restart in the popup.

“overall I had a lot of problems even getting the provided bust to scan in without many tries, and even still the final time that worked the details were sub-par.”

There is a learning curve. Part of the problem may be that you are not properly preparing the objects being scanned, especially if their material absorbs infrared light or is shiny. Have you tried a scanning spray? The sublimating (self-dissipating) sprays are expensive, but if your object is washable, try dry shampoo (not very expensive at Target and the like).

“until finally they sent me the correct one for mac OS.”

You got a custom software version for your OS? Sounds like pretty good service to me. I don’t use the Apple hardware, so there may be some Automatic switches that I haven’t seen.

The scan becomes red because it lost it tracking .
If the side / angle you trying to scan is losing tracking , start a new scanner from that angle first , and then change it to the regular angle . If you would be much easier for the software to track the object .

When you change the position of your object , you can’t do more than 30 degrees from the preview angle, the scanner still need to recognize what it scanned already , and at a different angle above 30 degrees it may have problems .

So the best workflow will be to scan the difficult angle first , capture 360 degrees rotation, pause , move the object to next position and click the start button again .
It all depends also on what you are scanning and what is the object, without a picture it is difficult to give you any precise advice.

I can’t help you the the rest since I am on Win/Android only .

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I am getting a bit better at scanning and trying to be patient with my own errors, however it’s not completely working as desired. I am still getting holes, and details are getting lost. I calibrated with a .600 score (took me an incredibly long time to get calibrated, sometimes accepted bad alignments, other times stuck on seemingly good alignments). I also am wondering how I can get the software to work more smoothly and hopefully faster. Fusing and meshing takes a very long time, not maxing out the settings and my macbook should be able to run this reliably. I also keep having the camera freeze on me, or the software itself will get stuck zoomed all the way into the finished scan. I’ll provide a screen shot for reference to what I am working with.

(bit better rescan attempt, the object I am attempting to scan is my own clay sculpture, matte finish so shine shouldn’t be an issue.)

To keep the details sharper, do not overlap the scanning areas too much , one rotation is enough .
Keep an eye on the depth camera preview, you see the blue color indicator is exactly where you have holes . Increase the gain to 2 .
You can also use “close hole” option while meshing .

Fusing and meshing takes time , how more frames you capture while scanning, how longer you going to wait for the process , keep the frame count to 300-350 per rotation.

That is all you can do to speed up the process .
How lower the pitch point value, how longer it going to take .

I just had the setting down to 1 because i was getting red when scanning that close. I will try scanning with less passes as you suggested, I just can’t seem to get the recessed depths scanned in without multiple passes.

Any advice about when it zooms in all the way, I can figure out how to zoom out after that?

Heres another one, getting better but as you can see the many of the finer details are still getting lost. I plan on just exporting into Zbrush and fine tuning things but It would be nice if I could get better accuracy here. Any tips?

Well that do not looks bad at all .
I still see you have blue areas in preview , blue will not be scanned , take away a little bit the model from POP2 and set the gain higher so no blue areas on the model , just a little red is all ok .

POP2 can’t scan too deep creases sometimes , because of the shadow and ambient occlusion created from the infrared light . So scanning will be tricky

Also remember the preview looks so much smoother in Revo Scan that it actually is , once you import the mesh to Zbrush things looks totally different .

And remember about the gain , as that is the most important key in scanning , you want to have little more red but not blue on your model at all , blue means no surface will be scanned .

I can’t give you more tips here, you need to experiment with the shape , change angle , maybe change mode , see what best works for this sculpture . Definitely scanning straight from top can overlap the frames too much , better to try to scanning at small angles .

And of course on some point you need to let it go , resolution is only 0.1mm so don’t let it drive you crazy .